The Head Chef is Vivek Singh, a man of great enthusiasm and energy, and most important for this task, an open mind and a sophisticated international palate. He came from the famed Rajvilas Hotel in Jaipur whose kitchens turn out well crafted European classics as well as top class Indian food. Apparently Iqbal was very impressed while attending a wedding in the hotel last year. He refrained from putting down an offer for the whole biz, but managed to kidnap the chef instead. 

While the restaurant was undergoing its metamorphosis from that of a library, Vivek Singh spent much of that time working closely with Eric Chavot of London's 2 Michelin starred Capital Hotel to develop a new kind of fusion cuisine. Skills nurtured and perfected in the traditional Indian culinary arts are combined with Western ideas and presentation in a bid to give London's diners a whole new experience. I had thought that a new kind of Indian fusion would be a great idea some time ago when Nobu and Vong make such an impact with Pacific Rim fusion. I very much hope that the Cinnamon Club hasn't appeared just too late upon the scene, as fashions change, often unpredictably. 

Knowing Iqbal, I wasn't expecting flock wallpaper or fret worked Taj, but I was surprised (pleasantly) to discover that the original and rather scholarly - some might say 'clubby' atmosphere of the library, has been enhanced as much as preserved. The grand stairway and circulation areas make tasteful use of particularly  fine marble and stone imported from Rajasthan. But the front of house staff are nearly all Europeans, smartly dressed in formal chef de rang attire, with some extremely pretty girls amongst their ranks.

We relaxed in leather chairs in the bar, to study the menu and wine list in comfort. The menu is quite extensive, but not in comparison with your average local Indian. Dishes are designed to have their own internal logic, as it were, and come presented in the modern Western manner with essential accompaniments integrated into the whole. Purists might argue that this is not the way Indian food should be eaten, but the whole point of the exercise is surely to liberate the kitchen in order to create something exciting and new, not necessarily better than the best traditional method, but certainly different and original.

For starters, home smoked lamb kebabs sounded interesting, as did sandalwood flavoured tandoori chicken breast.  My colleague Michael Hepworth (over from LA on brief visit) began with char grilled sea bream with pomegranate extract. This came deliciously highly grilled and subtly spiced with a slightly sweet finish that we both much enjoyed. I had loin of rabbit, very much a Chavot-inspired creation I should think. The meat had been carefully fashioned into a perfect cylinder, filled with a light cream cheese and dried fruit stuffing, enhanced with delicate spice and held together with some sort of thin flatbread. Finally, to serve, it is cut across to form a circular portion like a terrine. It worked!

Choosing main courses was a difficult task. I had wild boar chops which had been very well seared in the tandoor. They came with a marvellous sauce, again the spicing was so well judged. Michael had the rack of lamb, also roasted in the tandoor. The tips of the ribs looked alarmingly black and burnt, but the meat itself was pink to perfection. Indeed the timing of our different meats was so astute: the boar needing just that little bit  extra so that it was not pink, but still tender. We were served some fresh flavoured marrow in cumin and wonderful little flatbreads that didn't overwhelm you like the standard soggy nan breads from around the corner.