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Long Beach is not an area too well known for its gourmet dining, but Delius Restaurant is definitely trying hard to buck the trend. It is owned by Louise and Dave Stolzman who have put their heart and soul -  and a lot more besides -  into a venture that is starting to pay off. The restaurant is dedicated to Frederick Delius, the celebrated English composer, and the heavy burgundy curtains and classical décor are certainly in contrast to usual light and airy Californian style. The atmosphere is very mellow and relaxed with classical music (strains of Brigg Fair, perhaps?), or trendy jazz keeping the mood just right for a special evening. The tables are also well spaced apart allowing private conversation Louise, who just happens to be British, began cooking as a child in Cambridge before joining a cruise ship and eventually meeting her American husband. Together they purchased Delius in 1996 from two Swiss sisters, and immediately began planning their extremely precise menu - a seven-course gourmet meal that changes every two weeks. What also makes Delius different from the norm is the concept of wine pairings, commonplace in Europe but rare in Los Angeles, and a fixed price of $42.50 which is also superb value for everything on offer here.

I started the feast with Chipotte crab cakes in a red bell pepper coulis, very tiny and light and paired with a South African Chenin Blanc from the Paarl region. Most of these wines are cheap and cheerful but this one had a fine intensity. The next dish turned out to be one of the gems of the meal. A double mushroom bread pudding with Portobello and button mushrooms in a heavy mushroom sauce turned out to be a winning combination.  The savory flavor was complemented by a sparkling Rotari wine from the Trentino region of North Eastern Italy. Hot Shallot bread direct from the oven added to my pleasure, which continued with the delicious Sweet Potato Champagne Soup. It was served piping hot, thick and creamy, just as a good soup should be.

Pesto Turkey meatballs with tomato oregano sauce served on top of pasta and a fried basil leaf. Was paired with Saint Esprit Cotes du Rhone. Again, this was another fine blending of flavors a very strong seasoning that made this a very interesting dish. Then it was time for the main course of Filet Mignon with a red cabernet reduction and crumbled Stilton, potatoes au gratin, buttered green beans and glazed carrots. The steak was served very rare, hence the wine selection of an Argentinean Syrah called Graffigna. This was again an unusual combination, but considering the concept of the meal, another good choice.

 By this time I was feeling quite full but opted for the plate of fruit and cheese with Fontina and Brie, followed by a trio of desserts - Moulton Chocolate Cake, Russian Cream with raspberry and a Tuxedo strawberry injected with butterscotch liquor. A dessert wine rounded up the drinking for the evening, a pleasant Riesling from Australia that I think was called a Haggles. By that time my note taking was becoming a bit sloppy - in contrast to the presentation of the desserts which continued the consistent excellence. 

Altogether a memorable evening of dining,  so when in Los Angeles, take a walk to the paradise garden by making a beeline for Delius, where you'll be surprised by something rather unique and different.  Michael Hepworth May 2001

 Delius Restaurant-3550 Long Beach Blvd, Long Beach, California 90807

Tel 562-426-0694

Reservations-Essential

Price-$42.50

Dress-California elegant

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