The bar is an important feature here. It would have to be because the resident wrist is none other than that of Dick Bradsell, who's shaken and stirred more concoctions than double-0-seven has had brushes with blondes.
I could see that the place was very heavy on design and style, so I have to admit I was in for a surprise when it came to the food. I'd heard it was good, but I hadn't realised it was going to be seriously good. I could sense that delight was only moments away the instant the home made bread and spicy coriender coated black olives appeared.
The Chef is Sam Metcalfe, a rising star. His first job out of college was at L'Escargot. By 22 he was head chef of the Belvedere in Holland Park. He then decided it was time to learn again, so he worked as Chef de Partie for Nico Landenis at Nico at Ninety Park Lane. Despite its name, the cuisine at Detroit is thoroughly Modern British, which means care and flair, with dash of dare.
There's a set Menu, which operates at lunch (noon to 3pm> and again between 6pm and 7pm, pre-theatre. The a la carte manu is available bothe at luch and in the evening.
To start with there was Chilled Gazpacho with sour cream and croutons, seared salmon and basil salad with an asparagus mousse, or potato and goat's cheese terrine on a salad with orange and hazelnut dressing. The main courses were chargrilled chicken with baked aubergines and peppers with toasted pinenuts, Roast Cod with Puy lentils in a lemon and parsley oil, or Fresh tagliatelle with SDTs, basil and shaved parmesan cheese. Two courses for 7.50, wow!
From that menu we tried the terrine, which was a proper turned-out-of-the-mould creation, cleverly held together by a wafer thin wrapping of almost translucent potato. I can't wait to try it at home... it'll no doubt be a total disaster! Perhaps we can prise the tasty secret of its manufacture from Mr Metcalfe... please Sam? I had a starter from the a la carte menu, marinated chopped vegetables (4.50), moulded into an oval and served with grilled olive ciabatta bread. Flavours and textures were both delicious.
The chargrilled chicken was spatchcocked, which means spreadeagled so it can cook through quickly. The bed of peppers, aubergines and sauteed potatoes was further enhanced by the crunchy toasty pinenuts. The food was simply but elegantly presented on large plain white deep dishes. I had a skyscraper of red snapper (12.50), perfectly grilled, and served with a relish of finely diced mango and celery. Squeaky green beans and a bed of potato completed this super dish.
We drank a very nice house white wine (11.00), but I'm afraid to admit that we gave up on the puds, though I was sorely tempted by pear tart tatin and vanilla ice cream, 3.95.
There is also a bar menu which looks equally tempting. For 6.50 you can have smoked haddock fish cake, fried egg, spinach and parsley, or sausage of the week, mashed potatoes and lentil jus.
Do give Detroit a try, you might so easily miss it, or on arrival think it was just another trendy bar. Nothing wrong with being trendy, but combined with cuisine that's outstanding, I promise that you won't be disappointed. Service is laidback and perfectly friendly but you may need to be a tad assertive. Although I thought the house wine was a bit pricey, there's house champagne for 15 pounds a bottle, which means that you could take a pal along for a rather classy knees-under and still have change from forty quid for the pair of you. Go for it!
Detroit, 35 Earlham Street, London WC2H 9LD. Tel: 020 7240 2662
Happy hour lasts for seven hours! Between noon and 7pm, the bar is open for wine at 1.50 a glass, spirits are 2.00 per double shot and Champagne is 15.00 a bottle.
In case you may still be wondering, SDTs are sun dried tomatoes. Oh and knees-under means knees under the table, i.e. a proper grownup sitdown meal, OK?
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