The Drewe Arms, Boradhembry, Devon

Dine Online - the UK Restaurant guide

Graham Tigg reports Broadhembry is almost a picture postcard village where all the houses and cottages are thatched. The Drewe Arms is really a pub where you go to eat, particularly when you want seafood. We booked a table for three for Sunday lunch and were reserved a cosy table by the fireplace. They understand drinks here - fine beer, a choice of three liqueurs for kir, and a short but balanced and well priced wine list. The dishes are chalked up on a couple of blackboards that necessitates a wander round - one board lists full restaurant dishes and the other more snack and bar food oriented meals. You can mix and match between the two.

For starters I had a half crab the size of half a rugby ball that was brilliantly fresh. A seafood selection included what seemed like a dozen different items, while red mullet in plenty of dill sauce was simple to eat but no less tasty. Interesting that they fillet all the fish here but leave the shellfish whole, I'm not sure why - perhaps next time I will ask for fish on the bone.

For her main course my mother had and array of Langoustines. Sue and I shared tuna with a pesto related sauce plus sea bass with ginger and lemon grass. Both accompaniment were uncomplicated and happily sat in the background and let the fish take pride and place. Vegetables were simple, fresh and firm. The wine, a little seen white Vacqueras from the southern Rhone, was now drinking very well.

Desserts were read out to us. Sue was not inspired by any of them and passed, but I enjoyed a sponge with lemon sauce and lemon custard. Coffee came in a large cafetiere and was terrific.

The quality of seafood here is second to none, and is simply but accurately cooked. A lot of what you pay must go on the ingredients which makes it keen value and there is also the near restaurant quality service we experienced once we were sat at our table. Our only quibbles would be that crabs and langoustines would have be easier to deal with had our table been a little larger, and their layout means that most clients miss out on a greeting and farewell from the staff.

Broadhembry is between the M5 and A303 on route to Exeter and thoroughly recommended for a short, or even better, a longer pit stop.

The bill came to Stg 75.00 for 3 excluding service (food only Stg 52.00).

Graham Tigg, October 1995

Back to Dine Online Home Page

Dine Online Copyright Clifton Media Associates 1996, All rights reserved.

Views or opinions expressed by authors are not necessarily those of the publishers, Clifton Media Associates. While every care is taken in compiling this publication, the publishers cannot assume responsibility for any effects arising therefrom.