the UK based Restaurant and Hotel Review
Game Season 2004
More information on restaurants that serve game
The Goring, Mela, City Cafeee Westminster, Aurora, Orrery, Chez Kristoff
The Dining Room at the Goring Hotel
Welcome to the Glorious Goring Game Fair from 1st October to 31st November 2004, says Mr George Goring, who has always been very partial to a bit of game. ‘Nothing beats an English grey legged Partridge’ he is wont to declare, on his way to his eponymous Dining Room – the haven of Great English cooking in the capital.
To celebrate the start of the Game Season, Mr George has instigated the Glorious Goring Game Fair. Together with Derek Quelch, the Goring’s Master Chef, he has assembled a fine array of the very best game you’ll find anywhere in the country. Chef points out that in these food faddy days there is nothing healthier and more natural than country fresh game – free ranging, lean, naturally reared and free of cholesterol.
For starters, how about The Goring Game Terrine, delicious Game Consommé with sherry, Venison Tartare, Carpaccio of Venison, Rabbit and Vegetable broth or Rabbit and wild mushroom soup.
For main courses, Chef suggests Roast Grouse, Roast Partridge or Roast Pheasant. Stewed Rabbit is ever popular, as is the Balmoral Estate Venison . The Goring Game Pie is famous throughout the land. Also included are Wild Mallard, Snipe, Teal, Woodcock, and scrumptious Wood Pigeon ( so different from the Trafalgar square variety ! ).
Being a British restaurant, puddings feature prominently in all their glory and, if you are an Edwardian at heart, savouries like Welsh Rabbit (neither Welsh nor rabbit!) are a traditional way to end the meal.
All this is accompanied by wines from one of the greatest cellars in the capital. Mr George Goring has been laying down wines for the future delectation of his customers for many a long year. His policy of buying ‘en primeur’ and then allowing the wines to mature, means that you’ll be amazed to find that there is something delicious here to suit every pocket.
The Goring Hotel, Beeston Place,
London SW1W 0JW
Tel +44 (0) 20 7396 9000
Now here's something very different... GAME FESTIVAL AT MELA
Mela, 156 Shaftesbury Avenue, near Cambridge Circus, London W1, has become known for both the quality of its food (awarded the Carlton London Indian Restaurant of the Year in 2001), and more recently for its innovative food festivals. From 5th - 23rd October the restaurant will be hosting a Game Festival. Director of cuisine, Kuldeep Singh, and Executive Head Chef of Mela, Uday Seth, have developed the festival menus. To celebrate the game season, the special menu will include bater zaffrani (quails marinated in saffron, cooked in a tandoor and seasoned with green chillies, mace and cardamom), partridge kalimirch (black partridge, a popular home style dish cooked on a tawa, flavoured and spiced with black peppers) and venison pasanda achaari (venison picatta cooked with pickling spices).
The à la carte menu, which is available alongside the special menus, offers plenty of interesting choices, including dishes prepared in the tandoor such as Luft-e-dariya (shell-on tiger prawns matured in creamed hung yoghurt marinade, aromatised with saffron, caraway seeds and fresh coriander). The curries and stir fry section includes a traditional Malabari Seafood Stew (a selection of seafood and fish gently stewed with turnip, cauliflower, creamy coconut milk and coriander); or Khatta Khargosh (fine cuts of rabbit in onion yoghurt gravy). There are also numerous vegetarian choices throughout the menu. Starters are priced between £3.50 and £4.95, main courses between £4.95 and £18.95, and desserts between £3.25 and £3.95.
At lunch the special 'Paratha Pavilion' menu is served, offering a choice of bread-based snack lunches with Indian fillings and toppings ranging from simple (£1.95) to a 'mini meal' (£4.95). Breads include naans and uttapams; and fillings/toppings include mushrooms and spring onions; chicken tikka; and spicy lamb mince and peas.
Mela is a lively restaurant, decorated in bright colours and tapestries with plenty of natural light from the large windows at the front of the restaurant. It's open seven days a week from midday to midnight (10.30pm Sundays and Bank Holidays).
For reservations or more information telephone 020 7836 8635 or email email@example.com
City Café, at the design award City Inn Westminster,
With the game season under way, staunch carnivores can head to City Café Westminster to try September’s game menu, which includes mallard and partridge. here are some tasters:
Roast Wood Pigeon with a Tomato and Spinach Cassoulet £6.95
Smoked Duck Breast with Pan Fried Polenta, Poached Quails Egg, Mushroom and truffle Salsa £6.95
Roast New Season Grouse with Game Chips, Parfait Crouton, Sauce Albert £22.50
Grilled Venison Loin, Braised Red Cabbage, Saffron Spiced Pear and Red Wine Sauce £19.95
City Café, City Inn Westminster, 30 John Islip Street,
SW1 4DD. Tel +44 (0) 20 7932 4600
Chef Allan Pickett at Aurora - Great Eastern Hotel, Liverpool St EC2 020 7618 5000 - has a couple of gorgeous dishes on his current menu:
Grey leg partridge, pithivier of wild mushrooms, savoy cabbage,
cep jus £18
Pot roast grouse, chestnut gnocchi, violet artichokes with redcurrant jus £24
Chef André Garrett at Orrery - 55 Marylebone High Street, W1 Tel: 0207616 8000 - is offering:
Roast grouse, mousseline with foie gras, creamed cabbage, grouse jus infused
with prunes £27
Chez Kristof, Hammersmith
The hot restaurant table in West London is undoubtedly Chez Kristof in Hammersmith. It's
the brainchild of restaurateur Jan Woronieki of Wodka in SW7 and Baltic on the South Bank.
The Brasserie style menu includes some of the great braising dishes and stews of Provincial cuisine - Choucroute, pot au feu & cassoulet as well as classic French cuts grilled over charcoal. But there's game too, and I couldn't help listing some of the other robust rural delights:
Partridge with bacon, cabbage and juniper £13.50
Coquelet with vinegar and shallots, Endive salad £12.50
Daube of Ox cheeks £12.00
Braised rabbit with prunes £11.50
Sauté of veal Kidneys with Mustard £13.00
Haunch of Venison with celeriac and pear, Grand Veneur sauce £13.50
Pot au feu with salt beef, tongue and oxtail 13.00
Tripe à la tomate 12.00
Check out their really flashy website www.chezkristof.co.uk
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