We visited Gidleigh Park once before several years ago and recall enjoying a fine lunch under Shaun Hill's long reign at the stoves. With Michael Caines now established this was going to be a new experience. As Michael is considered to be in the same top league as Richard Neat of Pied a Terre we were anticipating a real treat for Sunday lunch on the last day of our mini-break.
Over a glass of Champagne that was high on bottle age and biscuit factor, and plate of canapes included succulent turbot on ratatouille in a tiny tartlette, we tackled the non-trivial task of selecting from the eight first and main course dishes. I would have been happy with any of them although but I decided that fish was going to take a back seat after our recent visit to Padstow and St. Ives
A similar selection problem occurred with the wine list. You could find longer lists but this must be one of the most balanced and representative. What's more it appears not to carry any dead weight, the wines appear to be ready to drink, and many are not commercially available, or at least not for less than these prices. In looking for something farmyardy to complement the grouse, we selected a 1982 Mas de Daumas Gassac (Languedoc). This year is on the danger list if not extinct and yet is priced at little more than one merchant who last listed it in 1993.
On to the dining room with wood panels, bright and colourful water colours with food themes and, despite the heavy rain, a seemingly fictional pastoral view. A taster of a small cup of creamed pureed haricot bean was delicate yet clear and subtle. The bread was a wonder, three varieties that were light, crusty and possessed blotting paper sauce absorbing properties. We couldn't remember the last occasion we encountered this quality. They also leave your own personal bread basket on your table, a great idea as no restaurant ever seems to be able to predict the exact time it's required.
A crab, avocado and tomato starter used what seemed like partially oven dried tomato sandwiched between avocado slices which was covered above and below by a sensual crab mix. This sort of thing can so easily be a vague mesh mash, but this was perfect. The other first course was bits of roast rabbit placed on small dollops of tarragon mayonnaise with a small salad featuring deep fried bits of tarragon. Tarragon and chicken is a classic and rabbit works just as well. The strength of tarragon was perfect and the mayonnaise had such a beautiful light texture it didn't seem like mayonnaise at all.
Next a loin and sweetbreads of veal came with spinach, crescents of peeled plum tomatoes, and a sauce that was beautifully balanced, had good body and retained aromatic components. I couldn't resist ordering the grouse, one can only wait so long for the game season to get into full swing. It was plain roasted, removed from the carcass and cut into nearly separate fine strips by knife work that would leave a sushi chef struggling. The thin strips cleverly enable maximum grouse flavour to hit the tongue, I easily imagined it tasting the same as a heather moor in full flower smells. Underneath was sheer concentrated essence of game, presumably given body with a little bread. As well as a top notch sauce there was selection of autumn berries, a terrific alternative to a sweet jelly. On a side plate was a selection of root and roasted vegetables, at last somewhere provincial that serves appropriate vegetables to match the dish.
Cheese is included in the menu and we selected several from a display of local, UK and French specimens in prime condition. Lightly toasted campagne bread was another simple innovation for us that works brilliantly with the firm cheeses. Fig bread was perfect on it's own.
For dessert we went for the first chocolate of the trip, a type of marquise in a full bodied orange sauce, another classic combination. A pistachio soufflé with pistachio ice cream was perfect, although we preferred blackberry as a flavouring as devoured the previous evening in the Carved Angel. For our taste we would have liked to have seen a better ratio of desserts based on fruit on the menu, especially in late summer; there was only a fresh strawberry creation on the list of five or so.
Back in the drawing room we continued with a magnum cafetière of coffee that merited the attention of a fine wine. You can buy the beans here and on our next visit we will. The petits fours had some eight different types, although only one of each. It's very fortunate Sue doesn't care for many of them.
The service is perfect and the whole performance follows what I associate to be the classic French structure. The cooking demonstrates rare constraint and maturity in generally just concentrating on two or three key ingredients for each dish that are sound proven combinations, all executed with great attention to detail. Quite a start for a chef's first restaurant.
Obviously this all comes at a cost but the Stg 50 is the bottom line with service, unlimited mineral water, coffee, cheese etc. all included and there is also a Stg 30 three course menu available. Apart from the high level of culinary suphistication, this was also just as good value as any of the meals on our break, and then of course there is the idyllic setting that makes leaving something of an effort.
Total bill for two came to Stg 142 of which Stg 100 for food and a pound for local charity.
Copyright Graham Tigg, September 1995
and Clifton Media Associates 1996, All rights reserved.