the UK based Restaurant and Hotel Review
the UK based Restaurant and Hotel Review
It was a few days before Ann's birthday and I asked her where she would
like to go for her celebration dinner. "You choose" was the answer, "but order the food when you book and surprise me!" That was rather a
tall order but after some thought it occurred to me that the one person
upon whom I could rely was Kevin Gardner, the owner/chef of the King's
Head. A quick 'phone call was all that was needed when I gave Kevin a few "don'ts" and "leave it to me" was his answer.
When we arrived we were shown to a window table and a champagne I had not previously tasted soon arrived. It was a Marguerite Christel from Epernay, rather cold but not enough to hide the fine dry flavour. The first course was crispy fried sea bass on a bed of water cress and spinach ( wilted in a hot pan ) and a puree of Jerusalem artichoke. We still had champagne left and it was the perfect accompaniment.
This was followed by a lamb dish invented by Kevin and served on a bed of ratatouille and gnocchi potato with a rich sauce. I discovered the lamb had been boned out and the short loin cleaned of all fat leaving the eye muscle. It had been scalded in hot fat for a minute and then steamed for a further five, coated with Dijon mustard and herbs before being wrapped in cling film to rest for a while. It was cut into medallions before being unwrapped to ensure the herbs remained intact and the sauce was made from browned lamb stock with butter and basil reduced to a syrup. Ann was delighted and the Fleurie 1996 I had ordered was, at cold room temperature, just right.
We rested a while before a cheese board arrived and this was rather disappointing for choice although the stilton we both selected was good. There followed a creme brulée decorated with fresh strawberries from Peru ! The distinct vanilla flavour and the coconut tuille (moulded to shape) was excellent. I hate to think of the calories.......
Over coffee I was pleased to receive Ann's plaudits on what had been a
marvellous evening but the real credit was due to Kevin.
When we first arrived at the King's Head the entrance into the Inn was
dark and rather gloomy and not as welcoming as one would wish. The
atmosphere changed rapidly on reaching the small dining room however and
the service could not be faulted. Before striking out on his own Kevin
trained at Brookes Club in Piccadilly, worked for two years in
Australia, and came to Coltishall after working with Albert Roux at
Hanbury Manor in Ware. 
One of Roux's sayings is well known - a
beautiful woman needs little embellishment, just a little this and that
and nothing overdone, good food should be treated in the same way. Kevin has
learned his lesson well.
The King's Head can be found in the village of Coltishall some twenty minutes from Norwich off the B1150.
Telephone : 01603 737426
Fax : 01603 736542
E-mail : kevin.gardner@talk21.com
Vivian Salter, November 1999
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