the UK based Restaurant and Hotel Review



Michael Hepworth goes Moroccan in Beverly Hills at
Mamounia

Mamounia in Beverly Hills is the only Moroccan restaurant in the City.  It's named after the most famous and glamorous restaurant in Morocco, but although only it's a relatively tiny restaurant, the classic Moroccan dishes are  such as Bastilla and Couscous are all available. Living in London, one has much more of a choice of Moroccan restaurants, and the more the merrier I say. In fact there are only about half a dozen in the whole of Los Angeles County, and one of them has been around forever, the famous Dar Maghreb in Hollywood.

Mamounia, however, has had some good press, notably from the venerable Los Angeles Times critic Irene Virbila. This no doubt helped the restaurant  get off to a promising start. The fact that Janet Jackson threw a party here, and that Nicholas Cage popped by one evening for dinner has also helped in a town obsessed by star power and where they go to eat.

My daughter had never tried Moroccan food before, so it was a treat for her as she relaxed on the couches and let the Moroccan/French pop/rap music transport her to another world for a couple of hours. We did not see any belly dancers the night we went, but I understand that they do show up most nights, especially on weekends. Of course a few glasses of the underrated Amazir Moroccan wine also helps the flow of the evening. There is also a small selection of French and Californian wines on the wine list, but I generally stick with the Amazir, as it seems to match Moroccan food perfectly. In addition, the scents of coriander, cumin, saffron, marjoram, paprika, ginger and onion mingle with that of olive oil and the sweetness of sandalwood, mint and roses, all of which further enhance the dining experience.

You start the meal with the traditional washing of the hands in the portable Moroccan washbasin, and then get stuck right in with the Hariri (Moroccan lentil soup). Ut's lovely and creamy and the taste of the lentils comes rising through. An appetizer plate included some very fresh tasting eggplant, fresh carrots, marinated olives and garlic bread.. As good as all this was, on reflection I wish I had selected the merguez, the spicy lamb sausages that you really have to hunt down to buy from the butcher, unless you pop over to French supermarkets on a regular basis, or have a local French or Spanish butcher if you are lucky enough to live in Knightsbridge (London SW1).

Next up came the classic Moroccan dish of Bastilla, layers of chicken, eggs and crushed almonds wrapped in thin layers of filo pastry, baked and topped with powdered sugar & cinnamon. It tasted different to the normal Moroccan version because chicken was deputizing for pigeon  (no doubt to satisfy conservative American tastes). Served really hot, this particular version was more than enough for two people and it's a must when visiting the restaurant.

The main courses of Lamb with honey sauce and Chicken with lemon sauce were both rich in pungent spices and well marinated through and through. The sweetness of the lamb in particular stood out, and that was quickly followed by the vegetable couscous, still one of my favorite dishes and exquisitely prepared.

No Moroccan meal is complete without the mint tea ritual, which is always served after meals and with pastries, in this case Baklava. It rounded off a very satisfying meal full of subtle flavors and surprises. The service is typically Moroccan, extremely friendly and warm, an experience that the management can rightly call to being the next best thing to dining at a Moroccan home.

On Saturday night only the restaurant serves Machoui, a Moroccan feast with roasted lamb and roasted potatoes for $29.95, and vegetarian only dishes are also available. 

Michael Hepworth July 2001  *** Click here for other recommended Californian restaurants

Mamounia, 132 N.Robertson Blvd, Beverly Hills CA 90211 
Tel 310-360-7535 Fax 310-360-7328
 www.Mamounia.com 

Dress-Casual 
Parking-Valet 
Price for 2 with wine $85 
Open for dinner only 5.30 pm-11 pm Tuesday-Sunday  - Reservation advised.

Please send your comments to us at: Dine-Online
NB Dine Online is an independent review magazine. We have no business connections with any of the restaurants and hotels we write about. We do not make bookings or reservations for you!

Back to Dine Online Home Page

Dine Online Copyright Clifton Media Associates July 2001, All rights reserved.

Views or opinions expressed by authors are not necessarily those of the publishers, Clifton Media Associates. While every care is taken in compiling this publication, the publishers cannot assume responsibility for any effects arising therefrom.