The UK based Restaurant, Hotel and Wine Review
The UK based Restaurant, Hotel and Wine Review
What a joy it is to have a truly authentic Western restaurant in Hong Kong! Don Carmelo has just opened this excellent restaurant called Olé in Ice House Street, just a few steps down from the Foreign Correspondents' Club. The key to this delightful place is the superb Madrileno chef, who used to cook in one of my favourite Catalan restaurants in Madrid, “La Fonda”, (on Principe de Vergara).
The attention to detail in this place is extraordinary. Red and yellow - Spain’s national colours, are everywhere. Always a good idea for a restaurateur to have red as it is a colour that is supposed to make you eat more! You enter the restaurant through a stable door and the first sight that hits you is the heretofore impossible dream, (in Hong Kong), nothing less than Jamon Iberico de Bellotas from Jabugo, proudly resting in the ham rack, a wicked long blade nearby. This, quite simply, is the Emperor of all Hams, (any serious Italian for example would always pick this one over even the best Prosciutto). The pigs who provide it are fed entirely on acorns, and I have been carrying legs of these pigs over my shoulder from Madrid to London for many years as my eldest son Henry, (now 6) continues to call it simply “better better ham”. Suddenly to find this exceptional ham in Hong Kong was a happy surprise.
The next sight is an array of unusually presented tables; some in a bright and Andalusian style alcove, with a wooden floor and others in a more baronial setting with a spiral staircase and a generally highly acceptable feeling of space - unusual in those restaurants in Hong Kong not situated in a hotel. The best aspect of these tables though are the very comfortable chairs that go with them. How tiresome it is to sit in a chair that is not big enough for the Western frame, such as the highly unsatisfactory chairs in the most expensive restaurant in Hong Kong, Petrus, in the Island Shangri-La Hotel! Olé’s chairs are specially designed and are most attractive as well as being comfortably equipped with arms, which I love.
On to the most important aspect of all first class establishments - service, which for me represents 70% of an agreeable trip to a restaurant. One of the first things that hits you when you arrive is the charming Catalan Maitre d’Hotel, who recommends all the best, and not necessarily the most expensive things to enjoy. The waiters are mainly Filipino, which is the closest nationality to Spain in this part of the world, but overseeing everything is the extremely friendly figure of Don Carmelo, the Proprietor, who makes everyone feel special and who personally carves the joyous Jamon.
Having been fortunate enough to have lived in Madrid I can vouch for the fact that the food is completely authentic. And, what is more, the significant ingredients are all imported. This means that the jaded dim-summed palate can feast on, as starters, “Angulas a la Bilbaina” - Elvers the Bilbao way, “Sepia a la plancha” - Grilled cuttlefish, “Embutido variado” - Assorted Spanish cold meats, or the delicious “Sopa de ajo” - Garlic soup, amongst other excellent Spanish fare.
Main courses, unlike so many restaurants in the world, are the most dramatic. The “Cochinillo asado” - Suckling Pig baked in the oven , is worthy even of the small but mighty "Casa Botin" in Calle de los Cuchilleros in Madrid, regarded by many, including, it is said, The Queen of Spain, as the finest exponent of the art of preparing Suckling Pig outside Segovia. As a plain dish the simple much marinated “Solomillo de cordero” - Flash grilled lamb sirloin, is superb in its clean deep flavour and kind texture.
The (all imported) fish here are most unusual, which in the land of the warm waters is much appreciated. Imagine being able to have “Merluza a la Vasca” - Hake baked in a green sauce with prawns, out in Hong Kong: really excellent, as is the “Lubina a la sal” - Sea Bass coated in thick salt baked in the oven. Excellent Paella is also available. For me though the best is the squid in black ink rice: agreeably intense!
Wine! The wine at Ol&eaucte;, is all directly imported and is taken very seriously by Don Carmelo. The House Rioja at GBP£12, (a real bargain in the 65% tax on wine regime here) is delicious. While mine host is rather keen on all wine made in Ribera del Duero such as Pesquera, Vega Sicilia and the Muruve, which is supposed to go better with the Cochinillo, I think the real bargain is the Faustino V Reserva 1981 at GBP £37, which in the land where only 1993 and 1994 claret is financially achievable is a delight. For the whites the delicious Alvarino Mergadio is the one.
How much does it cost? Lunch is the time to go. There is a set lunch for GBP£10, which is about half of the price of the next best bargain in Hong Kong which is the set lunch at Nicholini’s in The Conrad Hotel. Olé’s lunch includes, Tortilla, olives, a superb soup of the day, (the last one I had was with baby mussels), and then perhaps ‘Trucha a la Navarra’- Trout stuffed with Ham or perhaps ‘Pollo en pepitoria’-Chicken in Saffron and Almond Sauce. That would be followed by a clean orange marinated in brandy or something similar. With a Mahou *****, the best Spanish beer, the whole lunch should not cost more than around GBP£15. To put that in perspective the plate of "better better ham" will also cost around GBP£15, but considering what it costs in Madrid, that is a bargain. Dinner will cost around GBP45 a head, which for top quality ingredients, a first class chef and friendly atmosphere, in this city, is a real find.
Charles Pelham, Hong Kong, May, 1999.
Olé - Spanish Restaurant and Tapas Bar, Ice House Street, Hong Kong. (Telephone: [852] 2523 8624)
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