Dine Online puts the latest Japanese
noodle diner through its paces
When
Brahms finally produced his first
symphony, critics smugly
pointed out the similarity between
his finale theme and the
Ode to Joy in Beethoven's ninth. "Any donkey can see that", Brahms is supposed
to have riposted. Entering Satsuma, the already buzzing Japanese diner
in Wardour Street, a donkey might well think he had strayed into yet another
branch of Wagamama. There are the same clean lines, stark white walls and plain
long wooden tables with bench seating; no squatting
on tatami mats!
At first glance it looks a bit like the canteen of a posh Scandinavian youth
hostel, an observation echoed by four young Swedes seated next to us. The staff,
mostly of varied Asian ethnicity were busy but friendly. However, Satsuma is
not really the place to settle in for a leisurely, comfortable meal. But that's
missing the point. Satsuma recognises the need for people on the move, perhaps
on their way to and from the theatre, to recharge their batteries before a
spot of clubbing, perhaps.
There's a good choice from a not too expensive menu. Complete meals come in
pretty lacquered bento boxes on their matching trays. There was plenty of tasty
chicken teriyaki in one box we tried (£8.90), and there were generous
ultra fresh chunks of tuna and salmon in the sashimi bento, (£12.90).
In the other compartments you'll find a timbale of rice, rather a lot of salad,
three california rolls (sushi filled with avocado and crabstick) and a couple
of very good Gyoza (Chinese dumplings). Served with the traditional bowl of
Miso soup, it was all pretty authentic, except for the liberal garnishes which
used lots of very Euro-lettuce leaves. This was a bow to Western presentation
which I found acceptable if a little over the top.
As there were four of us - my guests included Fred Chan, who is Dine
Online's Asian food expert - we also tried some other typical dishes. There
was a huge bowl of Seafood Ramen - fine noodles in a delicious broth
with lots of prawns, mussels in their shells and little sweet flavoured scallops.
This would make a substantial main dish for someone with quite an appetite.
Tofu steaks (£3.40) were fashioned from super light beancurd and fried
in traditional Japanese seasoning then served attractively on a very West End
salad. A plate of grilled chicken dumplings (£3.30) were different from
the ones that came with the bento. They both tasted and looked splendid, set
on one of those lovely square Japanese dishes with a gently curving surface
on which the chef had painted the sauce like Japanese calligraphy, a clever
touch that distanced itself for usual fast food philosophy.
Udon are large noodles almost the size of macaroni. Yaki Udon -
yaki means grilled or flash fried - was here interpreted as noodles mixed with
wok fried chicken and hard vegetables like peppers, carrots and mange toute.
When turned out into a large ceramic bowl, the colours, textures and flavours
were well contrasted and ofered good value at £5.50.
No Japanese meal would be complete without tempura, so we tried two varieties:
a mixed tempura which included large prawns (£5.50), and vegetable tempura
(£4.50). The batter was crisp and very knobbly, and the vegetables dry
and not oily, all just as it should be. We even tried the deep fried tempura
ice cream (£4.50). You have to attack it very quickly or the inside will
have melted away. The mango brandy sauce was yummy as was the green tea ice
(£2.50).
The kitchen is hugely efficient, so if you order many dishes, (as we did with
the sole interest of bringing you a fully researched account!), they will all
arrive at once which is a bit overwhelming. Only if you're in a hurry should
you choose a bento box with perhaps a side order of tempura or tofu. If you
want to linger, my advice is to order one bowl of ramen between two people,
and when it arrives ask for a salmon and tuna sashimi, this will come soon
shortly afterwards. Then order some tempura and some gyoza. See how your tummies
feel after that, and if there's still room you can fill up the corners with
an Udon noodle dish.
The cost of your meal
You can eat substantially for under a tenner. If you are greedy, or into serious
research into Japanese food like us, you can run up a bill for £73.75.
But our meal would have fed at least five, and it included two soft drinks,
desserts and a very nice bottle of Australian Sauvignon Blanc. With service
that's still well under twenty pounds a head.
Satsuma, 56 Wardour Street, London W1V 3HN
Tel: 020 7437 8336
Open every day: Sunday - Tuesday 12 noon - 11.00pm, Wednesday - Saturday 12
noon - 11.30pm.
