UK Restaurant and Hotel Reviews

London Hotels
Family Restaurants
Press Contact

Clifford Mould enjoys a table in the window at The Tenth

Let me make one thing clear from the start: Chef Derek Baker's cooking is not upstaged by the view from the panoramic windows of The Tenth on Kensington High Street. The advice to actors is always to avoid appearing with animals or children. The same might be said about chefs and views. This view is definitely one of the very best in London - an uninterrupted vista with the trees of Hyde Park in the foreground leading on to all the capital's major buildings spread across a 180 degree panorama.

It may be enough to take your breath away, but it certainly didn't remove my appetite for lunch. There's a fixed price lunch menu, excellent value at £16.50 for two courses, or £21.00 for three. There's also a small a la carte menu of four starters and five mains which is a representative selection from the evening a la carte, with the same prices which go in bands: £6.00, £7.50 and £10.95 for the starters, and £14.50, £16.50, £19.50 and £21.00 for the mains.

View from the Tenth!My dining companion and I both chose one dish each from the fixed menu and one from the a.l.c. Michael began with the chicken and tarragon gayette, a nifty little chicken nugget on a bed of sautéed pleurots, that was both tasty and decorative. From the a.l.c. I had noisettes of tuna, perfect round steaks looking like tournedos, wrapped edgeways with pancetta, and served with a cauliflower purée, which I reckon is one of the best things you can do to a cauliflower. It was very artfully arranged on the plate, proving that the macro-view outside was not the only pretty thing to look at. (Sorry Michael, you simply couldn't compete!)

Next we did a rather greedy thing - having heard that the chef's signature dish was wild mushroom soufflé, we ordered one portion to share between our first and second courses. It is round and brown like a bun with an allover Mediterranean suntan. It comes with a delicious salad featuring confit pears, and blobs of truffle mayonnaise are arranged around the circumference of the plate. The word blob does no justice whatsoever to Chef Baker and his brigade's decorative achievements.

For my main course I took the braised beef with herb dumplings from the fixed price menu. It was probably a bit hefty for lunch, (after one and a half starters) being one per cent comfort food. I couldn't quite manage all the meat, (my substantial portion may have looked beautiful, but this was not nouvelle cuisine!). But I really appreciated the light fluffy dunplings which enabled me not to waste a drop of the rich sauce that gave the meat such an extraordinary dark sheen. I'd like to come back on a cold winter night and eat this dish before decamping to my comfortable Royal Garden Hotel room to curl up with a book.

Michael had the best end of lamb from the a.l.c. - a dish that was a tour de force in both its execution and its presentation. The lamb was perfectly cooked, pink but not too rare inside (lamb needs a little more cooking than, say, beef). The accompaniment was a tall cylinder of mediterranean vegetables described as a Provencale vegetable moussaka. That sounds to me like stretching international relationships a bit far. I'd have called it ratatouille but would still have marvelled at the way it held together standing to attention topped off with a little chefs' hat of duchesse potato.

The service, by the way was excellent; at this point in the meal we were left in peace to contemplate the view and work on a small corner to fill with a little pudding. The autumn tatin was nicely caramelised and had fresh figs in it which I adore. Michael was ecstatic about his fudge and praline parfait - he comes from Dallas Texas, and although no doubt suffering from extreme steak withdrawal, has been most complimentary about London restaurant dining. The highlight of his trip was lunch at The Tenth. That's probably a nice note on which to finish!

Clifford Mould - September 1999

Update January 2000: Chocolate Night Cap Fix!
Intrigued? click the link to find out more...

The Tenth, Royal Garden Hotel, 2-24 Kensington High Street, London W8 4PT
Tel: 020 7361 1910 Fax: 020 7361 1921
Royal Garden Website


UK Restaurant Reviews – The Best Of The Dine Online Restaurant Reviews 2001 - 2010

Your comments please!

Email us your suggestions, reviews, comments.

We very much want to hear your comments on restaurants you have visited, wines you have tried. Maybe you disagree with us, or perhaps you want to recommend a place we haven't yet covered. Email us at with all your suggestions, reviews, comments.

Back to Dine Online Home Page

Copyright © 2007 MidasCode Ltd

Views or opinions expressed by authors are not necessarily those of the publishers, Midascode Ltd.
While every care is taken in compiling this publication, the publishers cannot assume responsibility for any effects arising therefrom.

MidasCode Ltd
5 & 6 The Azure Suites, Churchill Court, 112 The Street, Rustington, W Sussex BN16 3DA
Tel: 01903 779538 International: +44 1903 779538 - Fax: 01903 856683 – Mobile: 07860 899235 – International +44 7860 899235

Want your Restaurant Reviewed? Send requests to

Registerd Office: Highland House, Mayflower Close, Chandlersford, Eastleigh, Hampshire, SO53 4AR - Company No 05916096

Grape Seed Extract | Collecting Debt | Food Gadgets