the UK Restaurant and Hotel Zine

Fred Chan revisits Wagamama
the popular Japanese noodle canteen

Many miles of noodles have been slurped since my last visit, and a new branch had opened in Soho to help accommodate the overfill that was a nightly event in Bloomsbury. It was to the more recent Soho branch that I headed. It differs from the original in that the kitchen is on the ground floor, with the dining area below affording those who have to queue a fascinating view of the food being prepared in a high-tech kitchen, behind the shoulder height counter area. A courtesy cloaks check is provided as there is no room for hats and coats downstairs.

The dining room was very much along the same lines as the original. Long rows of tables with bench style seating in a cavernous room decorated in minimalist pine and brightly lit. Certainly such decor does not encourage "destinational eating", which the menu specifically points out is not part of Wagamama's policy.

So to the meal. My memory of the place was of quality and value for money being a theme followed through from the service to the actual food itself: something that Japanese cuisine in this country has so far failed to establish, especially on the value for money side. Wagamama has made one aspect of Japanese food accessible to the masses.

An inspection of the menu showed that there had been developments since my last visit. There was a greater variety of drinks, new noodle dishes and the addition of Tempura based dishes. Most dishes cost just over a fiver, with many of the side dishes considerably less. Also, the green tea was no longer free, but just amongst many Eastern teas available for the princely sum of one pound.

So it was to be a bowl of the Wagamama Special Ramen for me, while my wife had the Ebi Udon and we shared a portion of Ebi Tempura. Perhaps it was because Wagamama was unusually busy for a Sunday night (even the staff seemed surprised at the whole dining area being full and a queue half way along the upstairs corridor), but there was something not quite right about my Wagamama Special Ramen and my wife's Ebi Udon. I think it was the rather feeble soup stock and the fact that the noodles might have been a tad undercooked that signaled a kitchen under undue pressure and not coping as well as it could do. That and the fact that the dishes, whilst warm, were not piping hot.

Still, full marks for presentation and value for money, with each bowl of noodles containing plenty of interesting bits, from shitake mushrooms to tasty slices of teriyaki chicken. Whilst the noodles were a little below the usual high standard, the Ebi Tempura was spot on. The batter was wonderfully light, and the selection of king prawns, aubergine, sweet potato and courgette slices were superb. Exceptional value too, at only just over £5.

Verdict? Still a definite 'must go' place in my book. At least one visit is mandatory, if only to experience the whole Wagamama style of eating out. The food is also pretty excellent as well.

Cost: About £15 a head - Noodle dishes £5-£7, gyoza dumplings £4, wild rice £1.75, beer £2 -£ 2.90

Wagamama, 10a Lexington Street, Soho, W1
Tel: 020 7292 0990

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