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In 210BC the founder of the Qin Dynasty, the mighty Emperor Qin Shi Huang died. Apart from conquering many provinces and unifying China, Qin Shi Huang had spent his entire adult life preparing for death. He had constructed an enormous tomb, resembling a small mountain, and to accompany him into the next world, he constructed a huge army made from terracotta. Mainly cavalry, but also archers, charioteers and infantry. Upon his death, this truly magnificent life-size army was buried with the Emperor.

In the 1970s some local farmers discovered the tomb, which archeologists discovered had clearly been pillaged during the Peasant uprising the year after Emperor Qin's death. However, this most dramatic array of warriors in mint condition can now be seen. Each expression and character is different, and more and more treasures are being unearthed every day.

Dazed by the majesty of these mighty 2000 year old warriors, you need to return to your hotel (which should be the Hyatt by the way as we discovered that the Shangri-La didn't really live up to its name), and sleep. Upon wakening you feel ravenous and should therefore head towards the Xi'an Restaurant for authentic nourishment. While this place is confusingly called the Xi'an Hotel on its card, the address at the top of this review will take you to the right place.

If you are a small party you do not need to book and you should head up to the third floor of what looks like a squalid and big office building. Fear not, an unusual culinary experience awaits.

As you enter the restaurant, you see a lady playing another one of those Zither-type instruments, previously encountered in the restaurants described in A Vietnamese Trio. Behind her is a fountain doing its thing. While this all could be interpreted as being a bit too cute, Clare and I preferred to take it in the spirit in which it was meant, i.e. trying to get you into the spirit of bygone Xi'an times.

Ordering your meal is very simple. There are one or two English speaking waitresses, who will try to sell you the cheapest set menu. Order the least cheap and that will set you back the imperial sum of GBP£8.00

The following dishes (and drinks) appeared:-

• Green Tea for Clare. Baoji Dry Beer for me
  
• Smoked Fish with red beans. (A bit like kipper and very good)
  
• Prune Soup. (One sip was more than enough, although Clare liked it)
  
• Unleavened flour bun with BBQ Pork within. (This was the best)
  
• Several dumplings, one involving Filo pastry, (not as good as my sister-in-law Karyssa's)
  
• Chicken Noodle with Bean Curd. (What is the Asian fascination with this strange substance?)
  
• Cold Sesame Noodles
  
• Abalone. (My views on this revolting substance are well known. Most people disagree with me, however)
  
• Chicken Soup. (This looked promising until all the innards were revealed lurking in the depths!)
• Simmering Dish of Sea Bass, Cabbage and Chilli. (Excellent.)
• Thick Noodles with Cucumber. (Quite like a Bang Bang Sauce.) Spring Rolls.
• "Haw" Chicken. (Boiled Chicken with Cumin and Soy. Good.)

While this may not appear to be the most dramatically gastronomic of adventures, it really was fun to be having something so authentic and to be completely surrounded by locals as well.

Charles Pelham 1999

XI'AN RESTAURANT, 298 EAST STREET, XI'AN, CHINA. TEL:721 6120/6292

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