- modern oriental at the new Fulham Broadway Centre
centres are springing up all over
the place, particularly above, or
even wrapping around, underground
stations. People need to eat, so
mostly it's fast food outlets and
if you're lucky a branch of one of
the better chains like Pizza Express.
What you don't tend to find is an
independent restaurant that's all
tricked out in cutting edge style
and serving decently cooked, interesting
food. So three cheers for zimzun!
space caters for 100 diners, but
retains a reasonable degree of intimacy.
In the middle are several large square
tables, each overhung with a cascade
of transparent beads that are
all lit up, and nearly touching the
centre of the table with its pool
of petals and floating tea-lights.
The walls combine beautifully figured
woods contrasting with rich, dark
colours that set off a few carefully
chosen oriental artefacts.
menu is divided into sections featuring
noodle dishes, stir-fries, grills,
curries and side orders, and the
cuisine is broadly Thai. The chef,
Phuong Nguen previously cooked at
Busaba Eathai and Wagamama. The menu
goes quite a bit further than the
simple selections at Wagamama though.
There's a strange note that says "where
to start: the menu consists of main
courses and side dishes, there are
no starters. One noodle or rice dish
with a side order is sufficient".
So there, don't be greedy, and don't
talk with your mouth full! Or Mr
Peter Ponnampalam - P for Proprietor
- will come and tick you off. Actually
Mr P is P for Pussycat, and he clearly
makes it his chief business to make
sure his guests are enjoying their
we rejected this advice, which seemed
to be underselling important items
such as the curries and the stir-fries.
We ordered four of the side orders
(£2.95 - £4.50), which looked as
though they would make very adequate
starters, and since each one contained
at least four pieces of everything,
it made it easy to share the dishes
between the four of us without any
tantrums. The squid was chunky and
the batter was good, the fish cakes
were a bit rubbery, but the spring
rolls were okay and the prawns in
sesame were excellent. Each dish
came with its own carefully spiced
two curries we tried (green chicken £6.50)
and mussaman duck (£7.95) ) were
both outstanding, the sauces were
creamy and delicious, and there was
plenty of tender meat. The salads
(£4.95) would have been good without
the addition of pointless ingredients
like shredded iceberg lettuce which
turned them straightaway into common
pub garnishes. Seafood stir-fry dishes
(£7.50) were very nice, with generous
amounts of prawns, squid and scallops.
The jasmine rice was lovely.
there are no desserts, there being
no real tradition of such dishes
in Thai cooking. Maybe some Oriental
fresh fruit would be nice, though.
I tried a lassie, not the dog, but
a milky drink, but it had no bark,
let alone any bite! But there is
a small but effective wine list -
prices go from £12.95 - the
Alsace Pinot Blanc (£15.60) goes
really well with Thai food , and
if you like red wine, try the South
African Gamay (£15.95).
At lunchtime there's a great value
set of five meals, e.g. Thom Ka Chicken,
two fish cakes and two spring rolls, all for £5.95
Mould August 2003
at the Fulham Broadway Retail Centre
seven days a week from 12 noon until