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Bullochs at 116 Piccadilly

NB: All prices are shown in pounds sterling

There are many who think that London's smaller grand hotels not only offer the best value for money, but have a certain style and comfort that comes from the rather more personal attention that is harder to acheive on a very much larger scale. One thinks of Brown's, the Capital - and the Athenaeum at the Hyde Park Corner end of Piccadilly. What a position - Green Park in front, Knightsbridge to the right, Mayfair behind you, St James's nearly opposite - what more could a visitor to the capital wish for?

One of the best kept secrets in London is the restaurant, named after the Hotel's ebullient and irrepressible manager, Sally Bulloch, though why anyone would ever want to repress her, I cannot imagine. The dining room is very pretty, with lighting of a Mediterranean intensity (at lunchtime). It suddenly ocurred to me that this might sound like a criticism - far from it, let me assure you. In winter, a visit to Bulloch's is the perfect antidote to SAD, (seasonal affective disorder). On a perfect bright spring day I didn't mind being indoors, particularly when I caught sight of the menu.

Starters are 6.95 except for one or two luxury items such as grilled langoustines 9.95, or clams and mussels in a white wine and cream sauce 8.95. You could have Pancetta salad with a soft poached quail's egg; Grilled red mullet with deep fried aubergine and a saffron dressing; or Woodland mushrooms, tomatoes, basil and spinach with crostinis. I plumped for a terrine of smoked fish, which came with rye toast. The cross section of terrine was most attractive, wrapped round with dark green spinach leaf, the layers of smoked fish separated with horseradish cream. Flavours, textures and appearance were well integrated to make a most effective dish.

Main courses are 14.95 each, with a couple of two pound supplements and another of three pounds for Dover Sole. One of the special dishes of the day was roast guinea fowl on bed of spinach with a topping of foie gras. The bird had lots of flavour, the sauce was excellent, derived from the foie gras which was generous and melted in the mouth. Grilled scallops, seabass and salmon with Asian greens looked marvellous on its way to another table, as did some magret of duck on creamed leeks with asparagus and mushrooms. We very much enjoyed a bottle of Hollicks Coonewarra 1993 which had very ripe fruit held together with just enough tannin to keep a hold on the palate, given the richness of our main course.

Desserts cost 4.50, and the choice is good, I had a rich but light textured toffee pudding with home made ice cream. For around 26.00 you could have a really nice three course dinner. For shoppers wanting a light but very elegant bite, a starter and pudding would probably be more than enough, setting you back 11.45.

Service is very professional by equally charming French waiters - though to be fair the restaurant manager is English. I'm really glad to have discovered this gem of a place. If you try it, and I hope you will, do please email us with your views.

UK Restaurant Reviews – The Best Of The Dine Online Restaurant Reviews 2001 - 2010


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