Bullochs
at 116 Piccadilly
NB:
All prices are shown in pounds
sterling
There are many who think that London's
smaller grand hotels not only offer the
best value for money, but have a certain
style and comfort that comes from the
rather more personal attention that is
harder to acheive on a very much larger
scale. One thinks of Brown's, the Capital
- and the Athenaeum at the Hyde Park
Corner end of Piccadilly. What a position
- Green Park in front, Knightsbridge
to the right, Mayfair behind you, St
James's nearly opposite - what more could
a visitor to the capital
wish for?
One
of the best kept secrets in London
is the restaurant, named after the
Hotel's ebullient and irrepressible
manager, Sally Bulloch, though
why anyone would ever want to repress
her, I cannot imagine. The dining
room is very pretty, with lighting
of a Mediterranean intensity (at
lunchtime). It suddenly ocurred to
me that this might sound like a criticism
- far from it, let me assure you.
In winter, a visit to Bulloch's is
the perfect antidote to SAD, (seasonal
affective disorder). On a perfect
bright spring day I didn't mind being
indoors, particularly when I caught
sight of the menu.
Starters
are 6.95 except for one or two luxury
items such as grilled langoustines
9.95, or clams and mussels in a white
wine and cream sauce 8.95. You could
have Pancetta salad with a soft poached
quail's egg; Grilled red mullet with
deep fried aubergine and a saffron
dressing; or Woodland mushrooms,
tomatoes, basil and spinach with
crostinis. I plumped for a terrine
of smoked fish, which came with rye
toast. The cross section of terrine
was most attractive, wrapped round
with dark green spinach leaf, the
layers of smoked fish separated with
horseradish cream. Flavours, textures
and appearance were well integrated
to make a most effective dish.
Main
courses are 14.95 each, with a couple
of two pound supplements and another
of three pounds for Dover Sole. One
of the special dishes of the day
was roast guinea fowl on bed of spinach
with a topping of foie gras. The
bird had lots of flavour, the sauce
was excellent, derived from the foie
gras which was generous and melted
in the mouth. Grilled scallops, seabass
and salmon with Asian greens looked
marvellous on its way to another
table, as did some magret of duck
on creamed leeks with asparagus and
mushrooms. We very much enjoyed a
bottle of Hollicks Coonewarra 1993
which had very ripe fruit held together
with just enough tannin to keep a
hold on the palate, given the richness
of our main course.
Desserts
cost 4.50, and the choice is good,
I had a rich but light textured toffee
pudding with home made ice cream.
For around 26.00 you could have a
really nice three course dinner.
For shoppers wanting a light but
very elegant bite, a starter and
pudding would probably be more than
enough, setting you back 11.45.
Service
is very professional by equally charming
French waiters - though to be fair
the restaurant manager is English.
I'm really glad to have discovered
this gem of a place. If you try it,
and I hope you will, do please email
us with your views.
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