NB Update 2004: Chef Andrew Turner has moved
to The Bentley, 27 Harrington Gardens, London SW7
Brown's
Hotel
Everyone
knows Brown's Hotel, just off
Piccadilly in Albemarle Street,
opposite The Ritz. More English,
certainly more discreet than
The Ritz, isn't Brown's the
place to go and re-enact the
traditional ceremonies of the English afternoon tea? These are the accepted clichés
at any rate. Where full blown
dining is concerned, confusion
may set in on account of the
small chain of restaurants
called Browns, which started
in Oxford and has a reputation
for old fashioned English food.
Hence presumably, the decision
of Brown's Hotel to rename
its restaurant 1837,
that annus mirabilis in which
Queen Victoria came to the
throne.
No
less portentous for gastronomes,
it was also the year in which
London's first public restaurant
opened in Mayfair, at Mr Brown's
eponymous hotel. The restaurant 1837 was
recently refurbished retaining
its reassuringly Edwardian
wood panelling and carved pillars.
The ceiling is quietly decorated
with Jacobean style plasterwork.
Together with the heavy drapes,
the effect is that of a comfortable
country house dining room rather
than a glitzy metropolitan
restaurant.
We've been
a fan of restaurant 1837, ever
since it reopened a few years ago.
Back then, the food was pretty good,
but it was sommelier John Gilchrist's amazing
selection of wines by the glass that
really put the place on the map. A couple
of years later Chef Andrew
Turner came from the Berkeley Hotel when Pierre Koffman's La Tante Claire moved
there from Royal Hospital Road. It was not such a good move for Koffman
perhaps ( he lost his third Michelin star), but for Turner, the opportunity to
develop his own restaurant and his own style at 1837 has been a
stunning success.
In
the meantime, Gilchrist has left,
together with his chef-partner Emma
Sexton, to transform the attractive
and historic Inn, The
Crooked Billet in Milton Keynes.
Now in
2004, Turner has left to open another
new restaurant, this time at the
exclusive Bentley Hotel in Harrington
Gardens in South Kensington.
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