the UK Restaurant and Hotel Zine

As a founding member of the 41 Club, whose sole qualification for membership required you to live in an abode of that number, I was intrigued to be recommended this restaurant in Sydney by an old friend.

This place is seriously wonderful! It is situated on the top of The Chifley Tower, right on Sydney Harbour, and has that view “that dreams are made on”, comprising the venerable bridge, the Opera House and that curving expanse of shoreline and magical water, which makes this city such a very special place.

One of the most inspired aspects of this restaurant is that you can opt to have mini size helpings of the dishes in order to maximise the taste experience. In Europe such a treat would be called a Menu Degustation, but not here in more down to earth Sydney! Glasses of wine are recommended to go with each course.

In order to enjoy this you go to the Krug Room, which in spite of its name, has a more informal style with slightly smaller tables and a more relaxed approach to gastronomy. And there's still that quite stunning view. As my wife Clare and I had visited Doyle’s on Watson’s Bay for a dramatic lunch earlier we picked this option, and were massively impressed. The dishes described below can be found in the larger restaurant with larger servings.

To start with I fancied Creamed Eggs with Smoked Salmon and Ocean Trout Caviar with a matching glass of Krug Grande Cuvée, but in the end decided on Scampi Tails Sauteed in Leek Waistcoats, Soy and Chive Beurre Blanc, which was accompanied by a delicious glass of Mount Mary Triolet, Yarra Valley, Victoria 1996, a great discovery as it was a wine that was new to me.

Here you see the essence of modern Australian cooking. Innovation (the waistcoat), Asian influence (the soy), freshness (the Scampi) and classical French expertise (the Chive Beurre Blanc). This combination of qualities is one of the reasons why Australian trained chefs are so much in demand all over the world.

The next starter was Roast Barramundi Fillet, Chorizo Creamed Potatoes, Smoked Paprika Oil accompanied by a crisp and deep follow through glass of Leeuwin Estate Chardonnay, Margaret River, Western Australia 1995. This fish was such a treat to my Hong Kong palate, jaded as it is with garoupa, and yet more garoupa. In contrast this barramundi was firm, moist and full of flavour. Cooked absolutely to perfection as well.

We then tried the Seared Carpaccio of Kangaroo, Spiced Aubergine Relish & Potato Croutons with a glass of Mountadam Chardonnay, Eden Valley, South Australia 1997. This was very unusual, but not completely satisfactory. It was either the fact that the carpaccio was not shaved thinly enough, or perhaps that it was simply too adventurous dish even for yours truly. Still, I’m glad I tried it!

For the main course I was wrestling with the possibility of Glenloth Squab Roasted with a Grain Mustard Veloute with Peas and Baby Carrots (these by the way I had in another dish and were absolutely outstanding) with a glass of Rippon Pinot Noir from Central Otago, New Zealand. I also flirted with both a Roast Rack of Lamb with its Shank Baked in a Potato, Ratatouille Jus with its glass of Taltarni Merlot, Pyrenees, Victoria 1995, and the Crown Roast Of Wild Hare in a Chartreuse Jus with Braised Whitloof & Baby Spinach/ This was accompanied by the most expensive glass of wine on offer, the Penfolds St Henri Shiraz, Adelaide Foothills, South Australia 1993 @ GB£25.

This time the hare won and it really was exceptional. A deep dark flavour beautifully presented with the rib cage being pared down and cleaned, surrounding the dramatic meat. What a treat. I would actually advise the choice of the Taltarni Merlot instead, not only as it was five times cheaper, but it was also much more accessible. Our very nice waiter said that the Penfolds could have gone on another 50 years - one year for each Australian dollar of the price of the glassful!

Dessert was an easy choice - the Valhrona Chocolate Tart, White Chocolate Cream, Saffron Poached Pear. Ever since thinking that I saw a whole bag of saffron going for a song in the Spice Market in Istanbul, and then finding out later that it was really some sort of marigold pollen [probably safflower Ed.M] I have searched for saffron purity. I am happy to report that I found it here in this succulently juicy deep flavoured impeccable fruit! Incidentally, since mentioning the Spice Market in Istanbul, I should also mention that the Restaurant Pandeli upstairs in the market is quite wonderful - its signature dish is Sea Bass En Papillote.

Charles puts 41 up there with his top ten favourites

Anyway I decided to leave the Apple, Ginger Compote in A Sesame Nougatine, With Honey Ice Cream & a Calvados Sauce to the next time, which I hope will be very very soon as this place is up there with my special memories