Dine Online Restaurant Awards 1997

Dine Online - the Magazine on the Internet for lovers of fine food and wine

The Dine Online English Restaurant Awards 1997

NB: All prices are shown in pounds sterling

Dine Online has singled out a baker's dozen of restaurants for awards from over one hundred inspected during 1996, the Internet Magazine's first year of operation. Subjectivity is the name of the game. There were other places we visited during 1996 that could well have been better, one visit is just a snapshot after all. But each and every one of the following establishments seems to be trying particularly hard in their own individual ways to interest their customers and to produce something a little bit different to mark them out.

Dine Online Silver platter Award:

Zafferano, The Belgravia Italian Restaurant.

Chef Giorgio Locatelli loves food, loves talking about it and must love cooking it too, because that is what comes over, in generous ladles-full. His pasta dishes alone are so different and so interesting compared with the usual run of the mill stuff. Pappardelle, made of great flat noodles was served with the freshest, greenest broad beans and a sauce that was creamy without cloying. Tortellino in brodo consisted of delicate pasta parcels, each one unique because it was handmade, stuffed variously with meat and with black truffles. Even the breadsticks are homemde, irregular in shape and full of texture and flavour.

Zafferano, 15 Lowndes Street, London SW1, Tel: 020 7235 5800

Dine Online Accolades for various categories:

Most Creative fixed menu: Michel's, Ripley, Surrey. Chef: Erik Michel

Pieces of wigeon breast were fanned around leg joints and set on jet black wild mushrooms... but the exceptional taste sensations were patty pan squashes, and baby turnips that were simply delicious... cooking and presentation of great accomplishment and style.

Michel's, High Street, Ripley, Surrey. GU 23 6AQ Tel: 01483 224777

Best County House Hotel & Restaurant: The Gordleton Mill, Hampshire. Chef: Toby Hill

The foie gras was utter perfection, its surfaces delicately browned, no stringy bits but melting in the mouth, sandwiched between micro-thin palmiers of croustillant potato, the sherry vinegar cutting the richness on the palate. Guiseppe Vurchio's Chariot de Fromages is his pride and joy. A genuine cheese expert, he hunts cheeses with the predatory enjoyment of a hound after truffles.

The Gordleton Mill Hotel and Provence Restaurant, Silver Street, Hordle, Nr Lymington, Hampshire SO41 6DJ Tel: 01590 682219

Best Fish Restaurant: The Whitstable Oyster Fishery Co,Kent Chef: Nicky Billington

Located on the seafront in the Royal Native Oyster Stores, a plain old building, storm battered and full of character. The fish soup was probably the best I've tasted. The fresh oysters were superb.

The Whitstable Oyster Fishery Co, The Royal Native Oyster Stores, Horsebridge, Whitstable, Kent Tel: 01227 276856

Best Bar Restaurant: The Upstairs Bar, The Savoy Hotel, London. Chef: David Sharland

This is such an elegant, intimate space with its fascinating views of the glitterati appearing at the Hotel entrance. Marvellous selection of wines by the glass especially from Wolf Blass. You can enjoy delicate morsels to snack on or grills and a cornucopia of seafood, Ceasar Salad in a basket of crisp grilled parmesan and some terrific British puds.

The Savoy Hotel, The Strand London WC1 Tel: 020 7420 2356

Best Grand Hotel Restaurant: The Conservatory, The Lanesborough Hotel, SW1. Chef: Paul Gayler

A wild mushroom consommé had a depth and intensity of fungal flavour that was breathtaking... roast squab was tender and came with a caillette, an extraordinarily tasty rough chopped patty made from the leg meat, the liver, some wild mushrooms and shallots, all wrapped up in caul. The caramelised vegetables were dark and delicious...

The Conservatory Restaurant at the Lanesborough Hotel Hyde Park Corner, London SW1X 7TA Tel: 020 7259 5599

Best Classic Cuisine: Auberge de Provence, London SW1. Chef: Bernard Briqué

Wonderful fresh anchovies stuffed with olive tapenade and decorated with sweet red peppers oozed Provence. Fillet of steamed sea bass on colourful bed of carefully prepared tomatoes, with basil and olive oil.. had the true flavours of the region. Creme brulee au The de Ceylan was one of the best brulees I've had: the texture was perfect, the tea imparts fragrance, colour and body rather than flavour. The topping was crisp, without the vulgarity of a layer of solidified volcanic lava.

L'Auberge de Provence St James's Court Hotel, Buckingham Gate, London SW1 Tel: 020 7834 6655

Best Style and Value for Money: Cafe du Jardin, London WC1 Chef: Tony Howorth

Herb crusted pheasant was about as gamey as you'll get outside a St James's club, its roasted skinned peppers and shallots were brown at the edges and gooey within. Ricotta and pistachio fritters were like space invaders that had landed in a pool of lime juice and lavender honey mix. This was sophisticated nursery food of the most entertaining and satisfying kind. An excellent Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon cost far less than in many wine bars.

Le Cafe du Jardin, 28 Wellington Street, Covent Garden WC1. Tel: 020 7836 8769

Most interesting newcomer: Polygon Bar and Grill, SW4 Chef: Sascha Pin

Rotisserie cooking is coming back into fashion with new machines that sear and seal the outside of the meat, keeping more of the juices inside. The secret at Polygon is the marinades that are used before cooking, such as the lamb chump which is steeped in yoghurt, honey and mint. The fish grills are particlularly good, baby squids stuffed with olive tapenade and mushrooms and blackened salmon whose flavour was incredibly intense.

The Polygon Bar & Grill, 4 The Polygon, Clapham Old Town, SW4 Tel: 0171 622 1199

Best of British: The Greenhouse, London W1 Chef: Graham Grafton

Modern British cuisine that is still discernably British. It comes with a "twist" here and there, but the exotic ingredients complement rather than dominate. Chargrilled woodpigeon was gamey and pink centred; skate was delicately poached in a saffron and mussel sauce. Puddings are real: Baked rice pud with sultanas is fluffy, creamy and delicious.

The Greenhouse Restaurant, 27a Hay's Mews, Lonson W1. Tel: 020 7499 3331

Back to Dine Online Home Page

Views or opinions expressed by authors are not necessarily those of the publishers, Clifton Media Associates. While every care is taken in compiling this publication, the publishers cannot assume responsibility for any effects arising therefrom.

E-mail: dine@dine-online.co.uk