Chez
Gérard steaks out the South
Bank
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UPDATE:
The Entente Cordiale Banquet
Here
was a grand projet if
ever there was one. To celebrate
the 100th anniversary of the
signing of the Entente Cordiale between
France and England, Chez
Gérard hosted
a number of celebratory ten
course dinners. When
we saw the menu we knew this
was a gastronomic event we
couldn't miss. So along we
went to the branch of Chez
Gerard 1 Watling Street,
St Paul's EC4
This a great excuse to let
the staff have its head, and
the brigade rose to the challenge
admirably. The only failure
of the evening was my belly!
Portions were life-sized, and by course seven I was nearly defeated.
Menu
A glass
of Bouche Pere et Fils Champagne
with Canapés
***
Potage de Haricots et canard confit
***
Petoncles (scallops) sautéed, girolles et beurre de persil
***
Salade de celery, agrumes, pomme verte et coriandre
***
Grilled Tuna Provençal
***
Sorbet Citron et Vodka
***
Tournedos Rossini
***
Chevre parcels with thyme and honey
***
Poached plums in red wine with damson sorbet
***
Cafe and Chocolate
***
Taylor's LBV Port or Courvoisier VSOP
Well done,
Chez Gérard! L'entente, s'est bien continué
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A good
few years ago, Groupe Chez Gérard was
a small up and coming restaurant chain
to watch, but I suspect they got more
interested in rolling out new venues
than in looking after their food and
service. A change of ownership and a
new management regime happened a year
ago exactly, so it was time to see if
they
still do "the best steak frites this side of Paris", as their old slogan
boasted. 
I decided on the Prix Fixée menu, encouraged
by the minimal rise of one pound on its 1998 price - vraiment Fixée! There
are three dishes to choose from each of the three courses, and all of them
belong on the main menu, so you don't feel as though you're a second class
citizen. In any case, I was a man on a mission as I was off to hear the Nash
Ensemble at the Queen Elizabeth Hall, and the South Bank Chez Gerard is conveniently
opposite the rear entrance to the hall.
Two courses would be enough on this occasion,
especially as the picky bits are as good as a starter in their own
right. There were green and black olives, almonds and cashews, fresh baguette
and a few slices of Poelane bread (very smart) and both beurre douce d'Isigny
and (bliss) anchovy butter. The presence of all this sends an immediate signal
that the restaurateur is seriously interested in hospitality.
I decided against the Onglet steak, recent memories
of a tough one in Paris had put me off, but that was before I'd caught onto
the fact that Gerard's beef comes from the famous Buccleuch herd in Scotland.
Instead I went for the Welsh leg of lamb steak, a very generous chunk of
meat, perfectly pink and tender inside and chargrilled on the edges. It came
on a delicious pile of caramelised Mediterranean vegetables and a bowl of
rustling matchstick chips. At the next table, another couple of concert goers
were diving with gusto into the well presented fishy options from the Fixée:
gravadlax followed by grilled salmon.
Of course there was creme brûlée, so I put it
to the triple test: the topping was crisp and caramelised, the custard was
creamy and smooth, no hints of scrambled egg here. Finally, there were tell
tale black vanilla seeds, but I could have done with even more.
This was a flying visit, but the quality of
the ingredients and the cooking (but not the price) were every bit as high
as those at Mon Plaisir, the Soho Bistro that's
long been the benchmark for this style of French restaurant in London. So
what you are reading now is but a report in progress, as I shall definitely
be back to try the full menu. especially the Buccleuch beef. Then, to
complete the picture, I must pop along to the Brasserie St Quentin (which
spent a brief time under the rule of the old Gerard Group and has now returned
to its original owner, Lord Rathcaven).
Clifford Mould April 2004
Chez Gérard South Bank
The White House, 9 Belvedere Road, London
SE1 Tel: 020 7202 8470
Open seven days a week - closed for lunch on Monday and dinner
on Sunday
Prix Fixée Menus available at both
lunch and dinner for £13.50 for two courses and £16.75 for three.
Dishes on the set menu are also on the a.l.c. menu, so you don't get to
feel like the poor relation!
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