Deya,
London W1
Louise
Elgin was clearly impressed
I'm
not normally a huge fan of cocktails.
In my jaded opinion they are often
mis-matched combinations of alcohol
thrown together with too much sweet
fruit juice, resulting in a headache
the following morning. However, last
night my palate was totally rejuvenated
when I went to Deya, a stylish new
Indian restaurant and bar in Portman
Square. Massimo di Paola,
the sleek Italian bartender (who
worked for fashionistas Dolce & Gabbana
in the capacity of cocktail creator),
persuaded me to try one of the House
Specials, a Julep. His combination
of Zubrowka Bison lemongrass vodka,
vanilla liqueur, fresh mint, brown
sugar, fresh lime and soda, served
in a pleasing oval glass with plenty
of crushed ice, is now my new addiction
and I shall have to return regularly
for my next fix.
Deya
is the brainchild of restaurateur
Claudio Pulze together with Sir Michael
Caine, the foodie actor, who is making
a welcome return to the restaurant
business. It's an interesting combination
of modern and traditional; beautifully
moulded high ceilings are resplendent
with conservative and innovative
chandeliers, creating a sophisticated
ambience. The bar area is a little
cramped but attractively designed
and comfortable, while the adjacent
restaurant is spacious and airy,
with large sash windows covered in
elegant drapes, subtle lighting and
well spaced tables. Beautiful murals
of sacred Brahmans decorate one side
of the room creating an ethereal
and surreal feeling.
The
menu arrived in a fashionably retro
leather bound book, which was
beautifully illustrated. I began
with the Deya platter, in other words
a little taste of several of Chef
Sanjay (formerly of Zaika) Dwivedi's starters.
Yummy poached scallops in velvety
coconut milk were delicate, creamy
and succulent, and came served with
a silky mashed potato. Glazed tandoori
chicken was tender and flavoursome,
the lamb sheekh kebab subtly spiced,
and the crab and sweetcorn samosa
crisp and melt-in-the-mouth light.
'Not for the faint hearted', was
how my guest described his roasted
pumpkin lasagne. He said it was mild
on the palate before the chillies
and cumin kicked in.
The
main courses were a selection of
the traditional and the contemporary,
served artistically in cubular dishes
with the emphasis being on light
and healthy cooking. We shared a
sweetly spiced lamb roganjosh with
a rich onion and tomato sauce and
fragrant saffron rice, a hot and
fiery green chicken curry, finished
with fresh spinach and coriander
leaves, and butter chicken, cooked
in the tandoor, and served with a
buttery tomato sauce. A red snapper
masala was the only disappointment,
the spicy sauce not doing the fish
justice. To accompany this we had
some urad dal, black lentils cooked
gently overnight in a tandoor oven,
giving them a smooth creamy texture
and rich flavour, and, finally, some
pumpkin cubes, roasted with cumin
seeds, ginger and chillies.
A
pineapple granita was served very
cold in a shot glass, and was highly
refreshing, acting as a superb palate
cleanser, enabling me to plough on
to the dessert menu. I had the chocolate
silk, a very light chocolate mousse
with a hint of mint, enveloped in
an edible pot created from chocolate
strands, served with a pistachio
ice cream, a mouth-watering melange
of separate flavours. Other puddings
were based on traditional English
favourites with added hints of Indian
spice. Throughout the evening, I
was drinking a Californian Ca'del
Solo, Malvasia Blanca 2001, which
was smooth, fruity and highly palatable,
whilst the wine list has to be one
of the best I've encountered in an
Indian restaurant in the capital.
There
are three fairly priced set menus
suitable for all tastes, including
vegetarians. These arrive in a series
of five taster courses and include
optional wines by the glass especially
selected to complement each dish.
Whilst the set lunch at £14.50 for
two courses has to be a bit of a
bargain in an area of town where
a sandwich and coffee takeout costs
the lion's share of a tenner.
Louise
Elgin. November 2004
Deya
34 Portman Square W1 Tel: 020 7224
0411
Starters: £6.50
- £8.50 Mains: £11.50 - £14.50 Puddings: £4.75
Taster set menus: from £22.00 excluding wine, or £35.00
inc. wines selected to complement
each course
Wine by the glass from £4.50
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