The French House, Soho W1

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Nose to Tail Eating

The French House is soi disant on account of its war-time clientele, De Gaulle and his cronies in exile used to meet there. It's about as English, nay London a place as you could imagine. Ther's an old fashioned bar dowstairs with the walls covered in nostalgic black and white photos of the heros and heroines of a byegone age, well mostly. Upstairs is a rather lovely little dining room with well dressed tables: a professional, rather clubby atmosphere.

I popped in after reviewing Blues Bar a little further along Gerard Street. Chatting with Chef Spencer Hill, he told me that it is owned by the same proprietors as "St John" in Smithfield.

The concept of Nose to Tail Eating is that no part of the beast is considered too humble nor too squeam-making to be left unloved and uncooked. So on that days menu, (which is penned afresh each day> we had Grilled Pigs heart chicory and red onion 5.00 and Rabbit Confit pickled walnuts and watercress 4.80 for starters, and Devilled Kidneys and lentils 8.50, and Roast Pheasant and red cabbage 11.00 for main courses. Puddings are all 3.80, Double lemon Pudding sounded good.

We hope to bring you a proper review early next year.

The French House, 49 Dean Street, London W1 Tel: 020 7437 2477
Open for lunch & dinner every day except Sunday

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