the UK Restaurant and Hotel Zine
the UK Restaurant and Hotel Zine
For the sportive type not only is there a health club with all the
facilities for toning and tuning the human body, but there is a large and
beautiful "Roman" style swimming pool. It is the golf enthusiast, however,
that will be most enthralled as there is an 18 hole championship standard
Jack Nicklaus II course awaiting their attention. Now I am positively no
golfer, but it did not take an expert to see how beautifully laid out the
course is and how attractive it must be to spend time chasing a ball
around such lovely surroundings. I was therefore somewhat surprised to see
how many quite able bodied players took themselves around in those little
golf buggies with the sunshade roofs for keeping off the English rain.
We went for a long walk around the gardens to build up an appetite for our dinner in the Zodiac Restaurant, named after the star signs emblazoned in the plaster work of the barrel vaulted ceiling. It is a very pretty room with fabulous views over the terrace and beyond to the greens. The chairs are of a large and very comfortable antique style, appropriately, because dinner is not to be rushed in such circumstances.
There is a set menu of threes: three courses each offering a choice of
three dishes for £33.00. Coffee is extra, but VAT and a 5%, (yes 5%) service charge
is included in all the restaurant prices.
From this menu we tried a Roulade of salmon and morels whose spongy texture and colour were more suggestive of a white fish like sole than of salmon. It came with a nice endive salad and a lovely ginger dressing. The Chicken and mushroom terrine was similar in colour and texture and was livened up by a compote of summer fruits. The other choice was mushroom soup with white truffle oil. It struck me that all three of these starters were very much pre-prepared and they had all the appearance of well executed banqueting fare.
A main course of Mille-feuille of calve's liver with spinach turned out to be a mille-feuille of potatato and onion placed artistically on top of some slices of calve's liver, not the same thing at all! I asked for my Rump of lamb with ratatouille to be cooked "pretty pink", but someone other than I must have been wearing the rose coloured spectacles! It was supposed to come with "crispy basil potatoes". These amounted to two flakes the size of a ten pence piece. However, both dishes were served with well flavoured jus reductions, and the baby fennel and tiny turnips with little sprouty tops were delicious. The other main dish was a Pavé of salmon on caramelised endive and olive crushed potatoes. It looked very spectacular and appeared to be the most popular choice of the evening amongst the other diners.
For pudding I had Lemon pillows with peach schnapps cream which turned out to be a real tour de force! The smell of freshly infused vanilla (you could see the tiny seeds) wafted up from the light soufflé pillows floating on the rich but light sauce - very satisfying. After deliberating over Passion fruit delice with rhubarb compote and caramelised pear tart with liqurice ice cream (there is clearly an excellent pastry chef at Hanbury Manor), my partner chose the cheeses. She was well rewarded with a good selection of mainly French cheeses in absolutely tip-top condition.
There is a very comprehensive wine list with classic grands crus as well as superior wines from the New World. The house wine selection is really good with twelve wines all available by the glass starting at £3.50 for a very perky Provencal Chardonnay from the Vaucluse. Particularly outstanding was the St Emilion Chateau Yon Figeac at £6.50 a glass. I do wish they would serve wines by the glass in large glasses instead of brimful in smaller ones. The helping was not in itself ungenerous, but with wines of that quality it's a pity not to serve them in a way that shows them at their best.
Vegetarians are well provided for with their own a la carte menu also having three excellent choices per course. I chanced upon this gastronomic ghetto because I happened to remark to the waiter that there didn't seem to be any vegtable only dishes on the set dinner menu. It was then that I discovered that there was also an extensive a la carte menu. Look carefully at both before you order. Chilled gazpacho soup costs £5.50 on the a.l.c. but vegetarians must pay £6.75 for it (serves them right! I hear some of you cry). But they can get their own back as the Terrine of Provencal vegetables with red pepper vinaigrette and basil oil will cost them £7.50, but on the a.l.c. carnivores are charged two pounds extra!
Prices on the a.l.c. are Marco Pierre White-ish: hors d'oeuvres go from £9.50 to £16.00 and £18.50 for luxury items like lobster and foie gras. Main courses start at £19.50 for Scottish salmon (I hope it was wild?) to £30.00 for Fillet of Angus beef with potato and beetroot galette, chanterelle and turmeric herb butter. But if you've just played the Hanbury Manor course one shot below par then you're entitled to a genuine treat.
There is an informal bar restaurant named after Harry Vardon, the legendary golfer. Here snacks are available all day and there is a good choice from a modern British style menu at reasonable prices. You don't have to wear a jacket and tie and if the weather is good you may sit out on the terrace enjoying the the magnificent view.
We stayed the night in a very comfortable room with a very grand
bathroom and a balcony overlooking the same view. In the morning we had
breakfast on the Vardon terrace having been lucky to have chosen one of
the only decent summer days in July! The buffet breakfast was sumptuous:
super home baked breads and pastries, herby sausages, smokey bacon, creamy
scrambled eggs, loads of smoked salmon as well as all the health giving
fruits and yoghurts for those unlucky enough to be dieting.
I've left the most important thing to the end. The service at Hanbury Manor is extremely good. One expected it (and got it) in the Zodiac fine dining room. But everywhere you venture (and there's a great deal to venture into) there are helpful smiling people waiting to assist you. Afternoon tea in the palatial Oak Hall sitting room was sheer delight. Brochures on stately homes were found, directions given, recommendations shared. I'm sure that if you arrive tie-less at the Zodiac restaurant one would be quickly found for you - but I'm even more certain that if you arrive tired and listless at Hanbury Manor your batteries would soon be well and truly recharged!
Hanbury Manor Hotel and Country Club, Ware, Hertfordshire SG12 0SD
Tel: 01920 487722 Fax: 01920 487692
Directions: From junction 25 on the M25 take the A10 northbound towards Cambridge. About 12 miles after passing Hertford the dual carriage way ends at Thundridge. The hotel entrance is on your left at the Thundridge town sign.
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