the UK Restaurant and Hotel Zine

Refurbishing The Four Seasons
Clifford Mould gets into his painter's overalls for a superb lunch amidst the decorators' scaffolding

Executive Chef Eric Deblonde and Restaurant Chef Shaun Whatling invited a few lucky friends to try out some new dishes they are perfecting with the brigade, prior to the opening in about a month's time. They called it a "hard-hat" lunch, because the decorators had been banished for the day and we dined in the centre of the room, surrounded by scaffold planks and dust sheets. Funnily enough, there are other very trendy venues in London where this decor might well have been one of those intentional, jokey designs, were it not for the fact such designers aren't often very jokey people. If the scaffolding and dust sheets were to be removed to the ICA, they would certainly be translated into an installation. But Rosalie Wise from Toronto, is not that sort of designer. She was responsible for the original restaurant and has an affectionate eye for the space itself as well as the views over Hyde Park which provides an additional source of inspiration.

We began with some ravioli stuffed with radiccio lettuce and marscapone in a rich sauce flavoured with shallots and gorgonzola cheese. The pasta was very well executed by one of the chefs from the Milan Four Seasons who is currently doing a stint in London. The policy is to let everyone play to their strengths; where a chef has particular expertise, as this guy surely has with pasta, then he or she can pass their skills on to the rest of the brigade. I was surprised how much piquant flavour is released when radiccio is gently cooked, both the taste and the colour were vibrant.

This was followed by a between course miniature cappuccino soup made from artichoke with a swirl of smoked salmon mousse in place of the foam. The delicacy of such concoctions always takes my breath away; the secret must lie in the care in which the base stocks are prepared. At this juncture, I hardly like to divulge that we drank that most outstanding New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, Cloudy Bay, with our fish. I wouldn't want you to feel too deprived!

So, for main courses we were offered a colourful nage of seafood with tempting morsels of brill, lobster and scallops in a cardomom flavoured bouillon with gnocchi laced with Pimms and saffron. It was served in a deep, brilliant white bowl, and created quite a stir as the chefs brought it out, and again as we set to. An alternative, and equally sensational dish, consisted of a confit leg of duck on pureed mash with a millefeuille of onion and potato separating it from the lovely pink slices of breast meat.

I had the feeling that we were very much spoiled by having the undivided attention of two excellent chefs and their entire brigades. How often does such a chance come one's way? So I made the most of it and managed to make fair inroads into both the main dishes.

Yvon Coignard, the pastry chef, was not to be outshone on this occasion and he came up with a selection of miniature versions of some of his puddings. I particularly enjoyed a delicate pear and benedictine soufflé, and a very dark bitter chocolate mousse. His petits fours were wonderful.

On the basis of this experimental lunch, I can't wait for the new Lanes to open in early November. There's been a Michelin star at The Four Seasons in the past, and I can't help feeling that it won't be long before there are more. In the meantime, the old Lanes is still going, and the same team are there, so why don't you sample their cuisine right away?

The Four Seasons Hotel, Hamilton Place, Hyde Park Corner, London W1
Tel: 020 7499 0888

Please send your comments to us at: Dine-Online

Back to Dine Online Home Page

Dine Online Copyright Clifton Media Associates September 1998, All rights reserved.

Views or opinions expressed by authors are not necessarily those of the publishers, Clifton Media Associates. While every care is taken in compiling this publication, the publishers cannot assume responsibility for any effects arising therefrom.