The UK based Restaurant, Hotel and Wine Review


painting by Richard Bramble

Richard Bramble's illustration of
Le Manoir comes from his book
Star Chefs' Cookbook
  

Lisa Teoh and her all girl crew trip down the garden path at
Le Manoir

Le Manoir aux Quat' Saisons in Great Milton, Oxfordshire, is a fine example of a country house hotel - probably the best of its genre. It is owned and run - very visibly - by the redoubtable Raymond Blanc. He is supported by a friendly array of staff, most of whom are appropriately French. Le Manoir is situated in the beautiful village of Great Milton, which is easily reached by a pretty drive off the M40. After sweeping through the brick gateposts and scrunching up the short gravel drive, your car is whisked away whilst you are welcomed by the exceedingly gracious receptionists.

Whether you are staying the night or lunching as part of one of M. Blanc's promotions - as we were on this occasion - the greeting is just as warm. Five girl friends and myself had spent the morning at Bicester Shopping Village and had booked lunch as part of a combined promotion: an extra special treat, since, being midweek, we all took a day off work.

We were offered an aperitif in the lounge before lunch and were served a delicious kir along with olives, nuts and savoury nibbles. Impeccable appetisers then appeared: a fabulous assortment including anchovy puff pastry sticks, chicken morsels, tiny crab cakes and salmon bites.

At just the right moment, we were shown into the glorious conservatory restaurant where we were able to appreciate the spring sunshine without experiencing the spring wind. A taster of a slim tuna steak was served before the first course. It was delicately flavoured and certainly excited the taste buds, but, unfortunately, was a little too raw for some of our party to enjoy. For the promotion, a three-course menu consisting of two choices each was offered - and decisions seemed just as difficult! In the end, we divided evenly in our selections. I went for the spring onion risotto surrounded by saffron and mussel soup (I was delighted the latter were out of their shells). The risotto was perfectly al dente and beautifully flavoured with the spring onions. The soup, being served only around the outside of the mound of risotto, added interest to the palate. Others in our party had the alternative option of chicken terrine with finely sliced and grilled vegetables. All of us were very satisfied.

The entrées were cod in a lemon sauce or roast suckling pig in its own juices: again we split evenly in our choices. I went for the suckling pig, which was so moist and tender that it melted in the mouth. This contrasted fantastically with the crisp and airy, but not greasy, crackling. I do, however, suspect that the two had been cooked separately - but is that really cheating?! Both dishes were served with smooth and creamy mash and green beans.

Pudding was a big success on our table: those who had the lemon mousse were delighted with the dish. Equally popular, but with the added kudos of being from the garden, was the rhubarb and strawberry pudding which was served with a light and fluffy custard-like sauce.

We enjoyed both red and white wine with our meal, which was included in the promotion at half a bottle per person. The red wine was pleasant but fairly ordinary - but the white, a Chardonnay, was magnificent: fresh and full of apples. Unfortunately, I enjoyed it so much that the name remains elusive.

We took our coffee in the champagne lounge, again enjoying the sun that flooded through the windows. This really was the only disappointment of the meal: the petit fours that came with the coffee were perfect in size, selection and quality, but the coffee defies description. Cold, stewed and bitter only partially describes its awfulness.

But I can forgive the bad coffee: everything else at M. Blanc's establishment is divine. Sadly, we did not have the time to wander around the gardens and see the famous vegetable and herb gardens - but we can do that on our next visit, which all in our party have vowed to make again.

Shopping Lunch Promotion: three courses plus coffee and petit fours, including half a bottle of wine per person: £45 per head

Lisa Teoh May 1999

Le Manoir aux Quat' Saisons
Church Road, Great Milton
Oxfordshire Tel: 01844 278881

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