The Ports of the Thames Estuary such as Whitstable and Colchester provided the oysters that were once the staple fare of Londoners of all classes until pollution in the nineteenth century gave everyone the mother of jippie tummies. But now there has been a renaissance of the industry, and Whitstable is again the centre of a thriving fishing industry.
The uncompromisingly named Whitstable Oyster Fishery Co is located on the seafront in the Royal Native Oyster Stores, a plain old building, storm battered and full of character. We were a party of eight and we sat down at a large, plain deal scrubbed table for Sunday lunch on New Year's Eve. Before long the place was buzzing with happy people slipping oysters down their throats before tucking into the main fishy courses listed on a large blackboard.
The more wary amongst our number had their oysters grilled (what sacrilege!) and I had the fish soup (Stg 3.50) which was probably the best I've tasted. The fresh oysters were superb (Stg 7.20 for six on the half shell). Everyone said that they tasted "fresh, just like the sea", but nobody volunteered to step outside onto the beach for a comparative tasting against the real thing.
Several of us had the Dover Sole (Stg 12.50) which was plainly done as befits such harbour fresh produce, and the local caught whiting (Stg 8.50) were presented coiled round with tails in mouths. There was a slight hiatus with some of the party, because they had ordered more starters as a substitute for a main course. But before they had time to notice that they had not yet been served, our friendly waiter popped out with a bottle of wine, a big smile and an apology. If only more establishments would take the initiative rather than waiting for patience to become eroded.
When it came, the pan fried squid (Stg 4.00) was deliciously garlicy and tender, and the scallops (Stg 5.00 or Stg 10.00 main course) were served in a white wine and cream sauce.
I alone had room for traditional bread and butter pudding (Stg 3.95) which was tasty but too dry. A dollop of home made ice cream helped it down.
In the same building is the Imperial Oyster Cinema, so clients can see a film and eat rather well before or after! At the time of writing (early January), The American President is showing. In the summer they show Art House Movies after dinner at 10pm. After March you need to book your table in the restaurant at all times. There's plenty to do and see in the area, with the historic towns of Rochester and Canterbury on either side. So, it's time to go on pilgrimage, I'm sure Geoff Chaucer would have given the place a good review!
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