If you are going to Sydney, this place is a must. Formerly known as Bilson's it combines all those things that are so magical about eating in this beautiful city, top food, freshest of produce and extraordinary views.

Now when I say extraordinary views, I need to underline this. If you book far enough in advance, which you need to anyway, you must specify "Opera House side". Then you will be looking right at the Opera House, and because you are on the Quay, and up a couple of storeys, you feel a part of the harbour with all its fascinating comings and goings of every sort of vessel.

Now we have discussed the view, although I'm not sure we have enough, as there is really something very special indeed about that Opera House. Anyway, when you are lucky enough to combine the inspiration derived from that architecture with the inspiration that your fortunate palate derives from Guillaume Brahimi's inventive Pacific Rim French cooking, you know that Thomas Aquinas had it right when he said that all is for the best in the best of all possible worlds.

The food here really is very good indeed. To start with you should try a Light Veloute of Local Lobster and Tasmanian Sea Urchin. Incidentally, why is it that we don't see Sea Urchin more? Clare and I were recently at a Dom Perignon Dinner (isn't life tough!) at The Aberdeen Marina Club in Hong Kong, (managed by the excellent Shangri-La group of Hotels), and my good friend Executive Chef Harlan Goldstein produced this extraordinary dish of Lightly Roasted Veal in a Sea Urchin Sauce, which was memorable as it was so deep in benign flavour, yet did not interfere with the joys of Epernay! Hats off to Harlan!

My mother tells me that one of life's great dishes is Sea Urchin Soufflé in Santiago in Chile. Unfortunately I have yet to try this culinary masterpiece!

The best starter at Quay this time was South Australian Blue Swimmer Crab Meat on a Bed of Avocado, Cucumber and a Red Capsicum Coulis. I am a big fan of crab and consider it superior to lobster. This type of crab rivalled that off Cornwall's shores and seemed to combine the fresh meaty tautness of colder waters with the kind texture of the famous Chiu Chow Crabs of China.

I would certainly be interested if any of dine-online's readers have other crab preferences. Please email the Editor at Dine-Online

The other starter of note was the Braised Oxtail on a Bed of Celeriac and Truffle Purée served in its own jus. The only solution is to keep returning to this great place over and over again, so you can try everything!

The main courses presented a problem as we indeed wanted everything. In the end we settled for Roasted Kangaroo Island Chicken with Foie Gras Ravioli and a Light Emulsion of Truffle . Clare went for the Steamed Local Long Line Blue Eye Cod in a Bouillabaisse of Rouget and Whiting with Eden Mussels. When I return to Sydney I will have the Slowly Pan-Fried Northern River Rack of Veal served on a Bed (there seems to be a profusion of beds in this restaurant!) of Pommes Parisienne, Artichoke and Portobello Mushrooms or possibly the Sealed Local John Dory on Roasted Artichokes, Asparagus and Lardons (always such a good addition to any dish) served with a light Veal Jus.

Frankly the accompaniments here are so good that it really is unnecessary to order extra veg. If you must, it will be no hardship to try the Roasted Globe Artichokes, Portobello Mushrooms and Basil Deglazed with Balsamic Vinegar.

Dessert was less complicated. Passionfruit Soufflé with Passionfruit Sorbet or an Armagnac Creme Brulée with Marinated Prunes were the answer.

What to drink? As usual in Australia, there is a huge choice of wines by the glass. We particularly liked the Leo Buring 'Leonay' Riesling from Eden Valley and the Dalwhinnie Chardonnay from the Pyrenees. For the reds we could have had the Heggies Merlot from Eden Valley or the Penfolds 'Kalimna' Bin 28 Shiraz from Barossa. I have to say that I think that Shiraz is a bit of an acquired taste, so I am slightly embarrassed to report that we actually chose the ever reliable Chateau Beychevelle 1988, which due to the weakness of the Australian Dollar (well over 2 to the Pound), was a snip at around GB£58. Bargain price aside, this was outstanding. I also enjoyed my chat with the friendly and learned sommelier.

This was the second time I've visited this place and I really recommend it. If I have a criticism, and it is only a mild observation as we really enjoyed our visit, it is that I would like to feel that, although they are a famous restaurant, that they were slightly keener on my custom!

Do try it though; a really unbeatable combination of view and food.

Charles Pelham, Sydney, July 1999

Quay, Overseas Passenger Terminal, Circular Quay West, Sydney
New South Wales, Australia
Telephone 612 9251 5600.

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