Roast,
Borough Market, London SE1
Clifford Mould enjoyed well cooked seasonal produce
Roast
is perched above one of London's
most celebrated foodie destinations, Borough
Market, where all kinds of artisanal
produce is available. Once almost
derelict, the covered market with
its fine Victorian arcades and glazing
has over recent years undergone an
invigorating transformation. This
area of Southwark is known as Bankside,
and it is full of interesting attractions
such as Shakespeare's Globe Theatre,
the Vinopolis Wine Exhibition and
the famous Tate Modern Art Gallery.
Roast
is the brainchild of Iqbal Wahhab,
who founded The Cinnamon Club in
Westminster, (see Dine-online review).
I loved Roast's light, elegant, conservatory
style with its bustling open kitchen
- on the Wednesday night before Easter
week when we visited, the place was
simply heaving. The head chef is
Lawrence Keogh, who was at The Goring
with its reputation as London's most
exclusive bastion of traditional
British cooking. As you might expect
from its name, Roast's menu is based
around a large spit oven, where suckling
pigs, poultry and ribs of beef are
cooked. But there is a big selection
of fish and shellfish, and the market
provides wonderfully fresh vegetables,
like the new season's tender English
leeks, which I enjoyed as a starter
done in two ways: the little shoots
raw (or maybe blanched for a few
seconds then refreshed), on a base
of finely diced leeks gently poached
in a dash of cream - very refreshing.
My
guest (who is a local - he's Peter
Wright, the organist of next-door
Southwark Cathedral) began his meal
with Bubble and Squeak topped with
a poached duck egg. This was copy
book cooking, the B&S had texture
and flavour and the duck egg must've
been laid that morning, for the white
was perfectly set and yolk oozed
out voluptuously.
For
my main course I tried the spit roasted
half of Banham Chicken. The Banham
farm is so green, it re-processes
all its chicken waste to produce
energy. I chose this dish because
I'm always on the look out for chicken
that reminds me of special Sunday
lunches when I was a lad. This chicken
was good enough by modern day standards,
but the leg meat was too pale and
it didn't taste as though the bird
had been properly hung on the feather.
I'd give it a cluck factor of 6.5
out of ten. The "trimmings" were
bread sauce that was too thin and
needed more bite of clove and some
excellent bacon. The roast potatoes,
done in goose fat were stunning -
don't miss them what ever you do.
Peter had the Roast Large Black Pork,
a very generous portion of several
thick wedges. The gravy was excellent,
sage and onion flavoured and this
did take us both back to happy childhood
memories. We shared another seasonal
English delight - delicious purple sprouting
broccoli. There's a pretty comprehensive
wine list, which happily completes
Roast's home grown aura with some
fine English wines. (Yes there are
quite a few now)!
The
pudding menu is very tempting. I
tried to ascertain if the bread and
butter pudding was served from one
big pudding as I rather dislike those
modern individual ones. This intelligence
proved difficult to discover as our
waiter didn't quite understand what
I was driving at. Never mind, I ordered
the English custard and nutmeg tart
with rhubarb. This was beautifully
made, with crisp thin pastry, a tremulous,
wobbly filling topped with plenty
of grated nutmeg, and some sharp
rhubarb on the side to cut the richness.
Peter's Apple Crumble looked a little
pale and wan (we like the topping
a bit burnt, sorry, caramelised),
but the apple filling was delicious
and the crumble had a good nutty
texture.
All
in all this was a very good meal.
Everyone on tables around us seemed
to be enjoying themselves greatly,
and if last Wednesday was anything
to go by, booking ahead would be
essential. The clientele looked decidedly
indigenous, and my advice to tourists
(including Londoners who venture
into London's ethnic enclaves), is eat
where the locals eat. Apparently
the Bishop of Southwark is a regular
and you can't get more local than
that!
Clifford
Mould April 2006
Facts:
Location:
The Floral Hall, Borough market, Southwark,
London SE1
Average a la carte prices - Starters: £8.00;
Mains £17.50; Puddings all £6.00
Set Menu £21 for three courses Monday - Friday 12noon - 2.30pm, 5.30 -6.30pm
and after 9.0pm
Breakfast is very popular, 7am -11am, Open 7 days, no dinner Sunday evenings.
Tel:
0207 9401300
Email: greatfood@roast-restaurant.com
Menu: www.roast-restaurant.com
Notes:
Borough Market is open daily for the trade 2am-9am. The retail foodie markets
are Fridays 12 noon - 6pm, Saturdays 9am - 4pm
On
the subject of chicken, Kelly's
of Danbury raise the best ones,
but not all year round, www.kellyturkeys.com
tel: +44 (0)1245 223581
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