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Latino: The Hot New Soho South American Tapas Bar Restaurant

NB: All prices are shown in pounds sterling

Latino could fairly be called a designer restaurant, since the owners come from the world of restaurant design. Sean Ward had the challenge of three spaces on three floors to coordinate, and his use of colour and metal work is striking. The place is really buzzing in the evenings, and rather like Detroit, it's a place where you might quite easily overlook some rather good food if someone wasn't there to tell you. Well I'm telling you now! Tapas is such a good idea for an informal meal, whether it's a quicklunch, a pre-theatre bite, or a pitstop before some serious clubbing. Thet rouble is it's got a bit tired and lost its way in so many places, though there are exceptions like La Mancha. Latin American Tapas has a piquant twist that sets it free from the ordinary run of the mill stuff. Perhaps it's less oily - more salsa and saucy. Latino's taste of tapas is jolly good value for 9.00. We got six good portions of cold tapas on a specially designed plate; plenty for two us as a lunchtime starter.

Chorizos with chilli, coriender and yummy roasted cashews were tasty but neither too salty nor too chewy, as they can all too often be. Chicken with pumpkin and almond salsa was lemony, fresh and crunchy. Julienne strips of ham came in lovely salsa that didn't take the roof off your mouth, and there were some nicely cooked slices of pork. The garlic king prawns were a bit predictable, but the olives marinated in lemon and rosemary were particularly good.

We tried a couple of hot tapas next. A large stuffed yellow pepper 4.50, was sweet and substantially packed with chick peas that could have been mushier, I don't really like them al dente though others do. But the stuffing also included artichoke hearts and a generous smothering of melted cheese. Salt cod fritters 3.95, were excellent, consisting of a deep fried brandade served with excellent home made tartare sauce.

They do various bocadillos which are a bit like a Latin equivalent of a pitta bread sandwich. They come with fillings of steak, chicken and guacamole or vegetarian. We tried the Spanish style fish and chips: deep fried calamari and fresh anchovies 6.00, with spicy paprika flavoured baton chips. I chatted to chef Aubrey Bailey, ex Soho Soho, who seems keen and very committed to making a success of this new venture. I'd like to see what he does with the Paella, 14.85 for two people. This can either be sheer heaven but more often the dish from hell via Benidorm, or was it Torremelinos?

Latino would be a good place to go for an interesting lunch. A table by the window upstairs gives you a fascinating view of Soho in full swing. As a bar with some fascinating cocktails and some good bottled beers, Latino is already hitting the spot. The restaurant side has yet to find its niche. But the cooking is assured and the man behind the stove has plenty of flair and vision. The wine list needs beefing up a bit, and there ought perhaps to be one or two more substantial dishes. I am in no doubt this will all develop in the fullness of time. In the meantime, enjoy some really first rate Tapas!

Latino, 25 Frith Street, London W1
Tel: 020 7287 5676
Open every day, 10am to 11pm, serving breakfast, lunch and dinner.

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