I don't know if Chewton Glen invented the term "Country House Hotel", but if they didn't, they deserve to have done. Martin and Brigitte Skan have, by flair, talent, vision and inspiration, unrelenting attention to detail, enormous hard work and a great sense of humour, created a hotel where it is a delight to stay and visit and where many of their clients return again and again.
The house was built in the in the early 1700s and attractively remodelled in the 1890s. It lies on the southern edge of the New Forest (so called because it was so in the time of King William the Conqueror in the 11th century!), in 70 acres of beautiful grounds. It is 90 miles from London and twenty minutes walk from the sea.
It is interesting to try and analyse just what it is that makes it all so attractive. On arrival in the spring or summer particularly, the first impact is made by the outstandingly beautiful and well kept gardens. The area round the entrance is a riot of colour and I particularly liked the creation of "Bizzy Lizzie Trees" achieved by planting hundreds of Impatiens plugs in hidden baskets on poles. Begonias, fuschias and cinerarias complete the pattern on this side of the house and elsewhere there are splendid rose gardens, avenues and herbaceous borders.
As you admire the entrance you will have been greeted by charming and attentive staff, ready to relieve you of your luggage - one's first taste of the friendly, courteous and wonderfully efficient help which will prevail throughout your visit.
The bedrooms, some with balconies and private terraces, and particularly the suites, of course, are outstandingly luxurious, filled with every sort of amenity and unguent and huge, soft towels and towelling robes. The decor is varied and a delight. Fresh flowers, sherry, mineral water and 24 hour room service mean that one never has to leave one's suite, but it would be a pity not to taste the hotel's many other delights!
There are a number of public rooms where one can lose oneself, all extremely comfortable, where log fires burn in winter and late summer, with fine views of the beautiful gardens, with rolling lawns and terraces and friendly (well, fairly friendly) croquet matches.The main dining room is called the Marryat Room, named after Captain Marryat who wrote the delightful book "The Children of the New Forest" in this house. There is also a splendid conservatory which is a charming place to eat in, at any time of the year and an attractive bar.
As one would expect from a hotel with such an international reputation, the food is outstanding. Pierre Chevillard, the brilliant Chef de Cuisine, has been with the Skans for many years - and, indeed, it is a feature of the hotel how long many of the staff remain, often in spite of blandishments. A particularly good point is that, although the food is unusual and delicious, it need not be excessively rich or, indeed, fattening. They actually have on the menu a "Vegetarian and Wellness Choice". One could stay a month at the hotel and still be enjoying the food at the end of one's visit. There are many places which I love to visit but where, after two or three days, one feels the need of a Health Farm or at least a plain boiled egg!
Lunch might begin with a remoulade of Tiger Prawns and celeriac with lobster oil; beignets of cod, cooked in beer batter served with a spicy tomato and sweet pepper compote; Caesar salad with garlic croutons; Galia melon filled with summer berries; or double baked Emmenthal souffle with fondue sauce - a great dish.
Main courses could include roast grouse or game, in season; pan fried liver and bacon in a sage jus; a rib eye steak with a bone marrow and shallots sauce; grilled sole, roast fillet of cod or cold salmon.
They also have a light luncheon menu, which might include fresh fettucine with a nage of leeks and smoked salmon; gratin of smoked haddock and poached egg glazed with a mustard sabayon or a fine tomato tart with Capricorn goats' cheese and plum tomatoes with a salad.
The desserts are amazing: warm rasberries with home made ice cream; fresh mirabelle and almond tart with pistachio ice cream; iced Grand Marnier souffle with chocolate sauce; hot chocolate fondant with chocolate mint ice cream - and much else besides. There is an extensive selection of interesting cheeses, all in superb condition.
The dinner menu is similar, but somewhat longer and more elaborate. although, again, one can always eat lightly. Patrick Gaillard, the restaurant manager, provides, with his team, impeccable and agreeably friendly service.
The wine list contains some 400 items controlled by Mark Walter, the knowledgeable and helpful young sommelier.
After so much talk of food, we should turn to exercise. Nor does one have to go far, because there is a magnificent Health Club in the hotel, offering every form of health and fitness facility. There is a nine hole golf course, two fine indoor tennis courts and a stunning indoor pool. If one feels the need to step outside this haven, Beaulieu, Broadlands, Exbury Gardens, Kingston Lacy and Stonehenge are all nearby.
If this review is full of superlatives, it is because Chewton Glen is a superlative place. One must go there to appreciate it.
Double rooms start at œ195 per room per night. A three course table d'hote luncheon is œ23.50, a light luncheon of one course and dessert œ12.50. Table d'hote dinner is œ42.50.
Chewton Glen, New Milton, Hampshire, BH25 6QS
Tel: 01425 275341 Fax: 01425 273310 Email: 100547.3423@compuserve.com
US Toll Free: 1 800 344 5087 US Toll Free Fax:1 800 398 4534
See also our reviews of The Gordleton Mill and Rhinefield House, in the same area of the New Forest.
Michael Pelham is proprietor of Pelham Tours, which organises sporting, gastronomic, garden and other tours in the UK and Europe.
Pelham Tours:Old Way House, Beaulieu, Hampshire SO41 7YL
Tel: 01590 612264 Fax: 01590 612747
Email: peltours@interalpha.co.uk
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